Sabre Headcord: how do you fix it?

[jz85]

I didn't find any previous posts on this topic, but apologies if anyone else has already asked the question before.
My sabre headcord has been disconnected at one end from the clip (I must have pulled on it too hard). When I tried to fix it I found that inside the plastic wrap there were smaller plastic wraps around the wires, and they were really difficult to remove. Has anyone had this problem before? How am I supposed to fix the headcord?
And along the same lines, where do I get a headcord that actually lasts? Right now I'm using the telephone cords, but I head that the straight ones are better. Is that true?
Thanks.

[Purple Fencer]

I didn't find any previous posts on this topic, but apologies if anyone else has already asked the question before.
My sabre headcord has been disconnected at one end from the clip (I must have pulled on it too hard). When I tried to fix it I found that inside the plastic wrap there were smaller plastic wraps around the wires, and they were really difficult to remove. Has anyone had this problem before? How am I supposed to fix the headcord?
And along the same lines, where do I get a headcord that actually lasts? Right now I'm using the telephone cords, but I head that the straight ones are better. Is that true?
Thanks.

Sounds like your cord is made from milti strand telephone wire. You can remove the individual wire insulations with a set of wire strippers.

Strip off enough insulation fdrom each wire to be able to twist them together, then do so and resolder it to the clip. Just make sure that the length is between 30 and 40 cm.

On a coiled cord the way I've been advised to check thast would be to hold one clip, let the cord dangle down and stretch under it's own weight, and check the length at that point.

I;m not sure about the benefits of the coiled vs straight cord...someone like Tim or Donald would have a better line on that.

I DO have some head cords in stock that are straight, but made from teh same wire as my body cord.

[SJCFU#2]

Repairing a head cord is simple. It's nothing more than a cord with a clip at each end so to repair it you simply strip the insulation from the cord and solder it to the clip.

Of course things are rarely that simple in real life. A phone cord actually contains four individual wires, each with its own insulation, inside a common plastic jacket. You have to remove all the insulation from the end of the wire before you can solder. Removing the outer jacket is simple with the right tool, otherwise you can carefully remove it with a knife (don't cut too deep or you might damage the wires). Removing insulation from the individual wires takes a little more care, but only because they are bunched together. The biggest problem that I have had with phone cord is that it doesn't seem to take well to solder, but that could be a flaw in my technique.

The primary advantage in a coiled cord is that it can stretch in an emergency (such as when your mask slips out of your hands). Personally I favor single-line straight cord. In addition to being cheap (especially if salvaged from an old body cord), it is easy to strip and solder.

[KD5MDK]

If I'm buying, I prefer phone cords, if I'm building, I prefer simpler wire (or more accurately, wire with many more strands that's so much easier to work with).

[Inquartata]

I just cut away and peel back the outer insulation to reveal the tiny wires inside, then melt the insulation off them with a butane lighter. Then wrap them around the screw in the clip and solder, crimp the 2 little "teeth" of the clip's end down over the wire and add a layer of Shoe Goo as strain relief.

[yeoldearmourer]

I just cut away and peel back the outer insulation to reveal the tiny wires inside, then melt the insulation off them with a butane lighter. Then wrap them around the screw in the clip and solder, crimp the 2 little "teeth" of the clip's end down over the wire and add a layer of Shoe Goo as strain relief.

I do it the same way even though I have the proper tool to strip the cord

[fencerbill]

My "Rhino" brand head cords are sold at American Fencers. They are made from braided ground strap with a transparent plastic covering. I used to say they have a lifetime guarantee. The cord usually lasts longer than the Mueller clips. I did get one back 5 years after I sold it with a request to fix it. I am still using the same ones I took to the Vets World Championships in 1999. They are not coiled. Actually that is an advantage since, with them, it is practically impossible to throw your mask.

[Aqua_volans]

If I'm buying, I prefer phone cords, if I'm building, I prefer simpler wire (or more accurately, wire with many more strands that's so much easier to work with).

you can try using recycled body lead to build. the silver wire in there is great.

[Mergs]

Just make sure that the length is between 30 and 40 cm.

Does that mean if it's 29.9999999999cm or 40.0000000000001cm it's illegal? And where do you measure it from? The outer molecular layer of the coating or the furthest extent of the electron path of the outermost atom?

[keropie]

Does that mean if it's 29.9999999999cm or 40.0000000000001cm it's illegal? And where do you measure it from? The outer molecular layer of the coating or the furthest extent of the electron path of the outermost atom?

Well, I'd have to say that you'd have to measure from the either the outer molecular layer, or possibly from the outer edge of the 90% certainty surface. Clearly you can't measure from the furthest extent of the electron path in that there is NO furthest extent of the electron path

[fencerbill]

And where do you measure it from?

That is actually a good question. You do not include the alligator clips. So you measure between the tips of the a$$ ends of the alligator clips. And at World Championships, I have seen them rejected if they were a cm over or under length. Where I have seen more rejections actually is when the Foil body cord alligator clip leads have dwindled to less than 40 cm.

[I_luv_saber]

Just a little something to add... Be sure the surface you are soldering is clean. I soldered my old lead to fix a broken connection. Got out the ol' meter, checked... nothing. So I removed the solder, used some sandpaper on the alligator clip, removing a thin layer of rust, re-soldered and bingo-bango: connectivity! Just something to remind what most already know .

[Peach]

Since I started using the Uhlmann straight mask cords, with their stronger clip, I don't have to fuss about keeping them on and I'm not wearing out my mask fabric clipping them to the sides.

[Purple Fencer]

Does that mean if it's 29.9999999999cm or 40.0000000000001cm it's illegal? And where do you measure it from? The outer molecular layer of the coating or the furthest extent of the electron path of the outermost atom?

Would someone hand Michael a beer, please??

Man, if you find test equipment THAT sensitive at a fencing event....BRING ON THE FRENCH TEAM!!

*did I just say that?*

[Mergs]

Would someone hand Michael a beer, please??

Yeah! Shiner, please.

[Inquartata]

Left eye, or right?

[KD5MDK]

Bock, Blonde or Hefewisen?

[Mergs]

Left eye, or right?

Heathen.

Bock, Blonde or Hefewisen?

Bock

[kmak_577]

Of course things are rarely that simple in real life. A phone cord actually contains four individual wires, each with its own insulation, inside a common plastic jacket

Well actually its six wires (in UK not sure about rest of world) lol and a bit of string as well for some reason.

[Mergs]

Well actually its six wires (in UK not sure about rest of world) lol and a bit of string as well for some reason.

There are both kinds available. The four wire is for older phone systems because two of the wires carried power and the other two carried the signal. Same arrangement for the six wire, except that it allows for two separate phone lines to a single outlet (with two jacks) and power being supplied to both jacks through a common terminal. The 'bit of string' is for strain relief during pulling wire through conduit, etc.