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pinseter · 03-06-2006, 03:59 PM

Schermasport contact adjustment.
What do you do if you break a blade and need to move the tip to an other blade and you have to re-adjust the shim but don't have any more material left on the contact post, or if you file the post down too far.
How can you add material to the brass contact on the tip? It seems like soldering might work but I’m afraid the beet might burn up the insulator. Has anyone done it? Is there a recommended way?

Purple Fencer · 03-06-2006, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinseter

Schermasport contact adjustment.
What do you do if you break a blade and need to move the tip to an other blade and you have to re-adjust the shim but don't have any more material left on the contact post, or if you file the post down too far.
How can you add material to the brass contact on the tip? It seems like soldering might work but I’m afraid the beet might burn up the insulator. Has anyone done it? Is there a recommended way?

Actually, there is.

If you take a screwdriver and remove the little screw from the top, then (CAREFULLY) dump out what's inside, you'll fine that there;s a spring for shock absorption and a few VERY TINY washers....those washers are how you;re SUPPOSED to advust the travel...filing's another way, but if you botch it, you;re pertty much screwed.

remise · 03-06-2006, 04:56 PM

I've been reading about those screwless tips. They sound like a pain.

KD5MDK · 03-06-2006, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purple Fencer

Actually, there is.

If you take a screwdriver and remove the little screw from the top, then (CAREFULLY) dump out what's inside, you'll fine that there;s a spring for shock absorption and a few VERY TINY washers....those washers are how you;re SUPPOSED to advust the travel...filing's another way, but if you botch it, you;re pertty much screwed.

Would it be possible to find these washers elsewhere and add some to adjust the travel?

Purple Fencer · 03-06-2006, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD5MDK

Would it be possible to find these washers elsewhere and add some to adjust the travel?

Probably only from a vendor who carries them like American Fencers. Those things are damn near microscopic!!! Paper thin doesn't begin to describe them! Manufacturing must've been a royal pain!

Remise...they're a pain, but once they're adjusted, they STAY adjusted....there's a REASON the Italians haven't changed the desigh since 1936....

yeoldearmourer · 03-06-2006, 05:31 PM

You can add a touch of solider to the post. But it will compress over time

pinseter · 03-07-2006, 02:06 PM

Sam, I couldn’t find the small screws on the inside of the point.

Tim, I was afraid that solder might compress, but I guess the only alternative is buying new tips.

Thanks

Purple Fencer · 03-07-2006, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinseter

Sam, I couldn’t find the small screws on the inside of the point.

Thanks

Sorry....I was tired when I wrote that.

Don't look on the inside of the point...look at the front of the tip itself...the part you WANT to hit with.

Like in this pic (although this is a Russian tip...the designs are similar)

DHCJr · 03-07-2006, 10:05 PM

When you take OUT the washers, that will lengthen the post. This is for if you filed to much instead of adding washers. Do save the washers for the future. They are hard to come by.

Swordmaster · 03-09-2006, 12:51 AM

Here is the description and instructions for the Schermasport "Screw-less" Epee point.
http://www.amfence.com/html/art__187...asport_scr.htm
As you can see, there is no mention of a screw in the end or tiny washer that can be removed. That was an older design that is no longer produced by anyone in the market. As far as I can tell, if you screw up and take too much off of A The brass piston, then you only have two options. 1. Replace the tip (not good since it retails for $20) or 2. Add material back to the piston (also not a good option since there is still a risk of screwing up a $20 tip by getting it too hot).

My suggestion would be to try a Estoc Diamond 3000 Screw-less point. It doesn't require a special wire and is easily adjust just like a standard epee point by threading on a contact spring onto a stud. If you screw up and get it too short, then you just rip it off and put an other 40 cent spring on. Once you have it set, you put a tiny drop of super glue on the stud where the spring has been threaded and let it dry. This does two things, it keeps the spring from being un-threaded off of the stud during fencing and it helps retain the plastic insulator which holds the tip together.

telkanuru · 03-09-2006, 01:47 AM

The estoc screwless points have the problem of the tip tearing out since it is only restrained by a small piece of plasic. This has happened to several of the weapons I wired with this point at club.

Purple Fencer · 03-09-2006, 02:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by telkanuru

The estoc screwless points have the problem of the tip tearing out since it is only restrained by a small piece of plasic. This has happened to several of the weapons I wired with this point at club.

They also don;t leave enough room to screw the spring on in the first place...difficult to adjust properly.

Swordmaster · 03-09-2006, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purple Fencer

They also don;t leave enough room to screw the spring on in the first place...difficult to adjust properly.

Spring changes have been made to correct this issue. That is the good thing about a new product, the manufacturers are open to change suggestions from the users.

Purple Fencer · 03-09-2006, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swordmaster

Spring changes have been made to correct this issue. That is the good thing about a new product, the manufacturers are open to change suggestions from the users.

Ar you talking about changes to the spring by Estoc?? All well & good, but I'd rather they leave more room so if all someone has is a Germand or French spring they can use it.

jjefferies · 03-10-2006, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by telkanuru

The estoc screwless points have the problem of the tip tearing out since it is only restrained by a small piece of plasic. This has happened to several of the weapons I wired with this point at club.

I've got twelve epees using them for the past several years. I've lost one with this kind of problem. Compared to the number of Uhlmans that I've lost due to screws coming out it's a better deal.

More important to me is that they stay smooth and don't get all crunchy like the Uhlmans do as they get crud inside the barrel.