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RITFencing · 01-26-2006, 12:59 PM

I know there have been many threads on this topic to date. I've been thinking about a solution, though, and I was hoping to get some feedback from the other technical types on the forum: What about a spray? I've seen various types of conductive ink for drawing circuits and making patches on PCB before (http://www.thinktink.com/stack/volum...cs/inkspec.htm) and I thought it might be posisble to make a spary out of this stuff. Just apply liberally to the dead spot and voila, working lame. It probably wouldn't be a permanent fix, but how much does it suck to show up at a tournament and find out that your trusty old lame has a big dead spot right in the center of the chest?

Morion · 01-26-2006, 01:27 PM

I've never used conductive ink, but I suspect it would be more like paint than ink. It would probably be too brittle to work effectively on a flexible surface.

hpfencing · 01-26-2006, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RITFencing

I know there have been many threads on this topic to date. I've been thinking about a solution, though, and I was hoping to get some feedback from the other technical types on the forum: What about a spray? I've seen various types of conductive ink for drawing circuits and making patches on PCB before (http://www.thinktink.com/stack/volum...cs/inkspec.htm) and I thought it might be posisble to make a spary out of this stuff. Just apply liberally to the dead spot and voila, working lame. It probably wouldn't be a permanent fix, but how much does it suck to show up at a tournament and find out that your trusty old lame has a big dead spot right in the center of the chest?

If you can make it work, let's patent it and make a lot of money.. LOL

Seriously if you figure something out let me know, i'd love to mess with it too.

RITFencing · 01-26-2006, 02:06 PM

You're on my list, Matt.

The problem is that I know nothing of the material beyond its electrical characterists, and I wouldn't know how to put it in a spray can. Does anyone have an old lame they'd be willing to experiment with? Just find a dead spot, apply some of this ink to it, let it dry, and then try fencing with it.

RITFencing · 01-26-2006, 02:10 PM

http://www.coates.com/electro/circui...conductive.htm

The touchkey ink listed here might be even better. No curing required, and it's supposed to be pretty flexible.

WhipLash · 01-27-2006, 07:02 AM

well it doesn't have to be in a spray can. a simple airbrush used for painting models will do, and it's also rather compact. tamiya sells those.

RITFencing · 01-27-2006, 10:45 AM

Great idea! Has it been used with that kind of ink?

hpfencing · 01-27-2006, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RITFencing

Great idea! Has it been used with that kind of ink?

This could be great.

I have 10+ lames at my club to paint.

I don't wanta be the first though, anyone else tried it yet?

RITFencing · 01-27-2006, 01:46 PM

Take the plunge, Matt. Be a pioneer. If I had any lames with dead spots I'd do it myself. Actually, if I had any lames at all I'd do it myself

fencerbill · 01-27-2006, 02:16 PM

I have used it.

I used the lacquer based silver paint sold for printed circuit board repairs to touch up spots on Sabre masks.

It ain't cheap. A one ounce bottle costs $25-35. It is actual silver powder in a lacquer base. When the lacquer dries, just silver is left.

It doesn't last very long. I Have used it to fix small dead spots, for example on the front upper corners of my Sabre mask where the stainless threads have been physically worn off. Two weeks later it had to be done again.

Some electronic outlets sell a similar nickel paint. It is cheaper but it doesn't last as long as the silver paint. This is similar to my experience that nickel based Lames don't last as long as stainless.

If you were trying to rejuvenate otherwise dead lames you have two problems.

The amount of silver needed would cost more than a new Lame.

A short time later, I estimate no more than weeks or months, you would have to do it again.

I have had much better results from the conductive thread mentioned, by others as well as by me, in other threads. Even hand sewing can fix up spots which should last for months. The thread is the same used to make Infinity lames so the repair should last as long as an Infinity Lame.

Ther is still no free lunch.

hpfencing · 01-27-2006, 03:10 PM

Other ideas for fixing dead lames?

Beowulfman6 · 01-29-2006, 12:08 AM

Non-metalic lames that are coated in some kind of knickel based material like the ones TCA and LP sell use something like this right? Maybe if you made the stuff into a paste or something with a tougher base material (maybe some kind of flexible adhesive) it would hold up better.

KD5MDK · 01-29-2006, 03:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hpfencing

Other ideas for fixing dead lames?

The "sew metallic thread over it" seems like a decent idea. Also, patch material can be obtained from vendors or by cannibalizing other lames.

WhipLash · 01-29-2006, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RITFencing

Great idea! Has it been used with that kind of ink?

if you are referring to the airspray it works with model paints, which we dilute. but i can't imagine that there would be problems with your ink, though you would have to clean the nozzle often to prevent blockage.

if you are referring to the ink, yes, it does sound like it has alot of potential, should the durability thing is resolved.

larkmaj · 01-29-2006, 07:16 AM

When we were at RMC for a tournament one of our lames was discovered to have a dead spot. When we were standing around trying to figure out the best way to fix it or if we should fix it some guy comes by (no idea who it was) and says he can fix it. He takes the lame and slathers this paste over the affected area. Now the lame works worse than ever and that area is all discolored and less flexible. I have no idea who the person was or what the hell that paste was.