Quote:
Originally posted by veeco:
<STRONG>This is funny: I just had the same problem at the Long Beach Invitational tournament this week-end.
My ref argued that the 1.5mm shim could not go in by force, it had to get in smoothly. I tried arguing, but to no avail. Got a yellow for that.
Oh and by the way, I was not using any of those exotic points, just regular German points from Allstar...</STRONG>
|
You referee is/was correct: the shim should go in easily. It may be snug, which will require that the shim be slid straight in, parallel to the point's surface, so it does not bind; HOWEVER, it should not require any significant force, twisting, or 'convincing' to get it in: this could damage the shim.
Tim was referring (poorly) to the fact that many (most) shims have a semi-circular cut, or notch, in them, to fit around the tip; an Uhlmann shim, presumably, would be made to fit nicely with Uhlmann tips, and so on... Some tips, of older russian, or chinese (et al.) manufacture, are a slightly larger diameter, and the notch on some shims is too small to fit them.
Tim also mis-stated the use/function (he usually knows what he's talking about, but doesn't usually explain it well.)
Fat shim (1.5 mm) must fit - thickness wise;
no depressing of the tip is necessary.
(if the tip is to big for the notch, the straight edge will suffice, but it should be checked on both sides at the same time (i.e. one shim on each side) to make sure the tip isn't 'rocking', or wiggling to one side to make room.
Thin shim ( 0.5 mm) must fit with point depressed, and NOT signal a hit.
THis ensure that, in use, the point is depressed a full millimeter (or more) before a hit is scored.
Hope that cleared it up!
Chris