Breaking Blades

[fencerbill]

There is a fortunate aspect to breaking a blade right behind the tip.

You can cut new threads and then have a just as good blade that is only about 3/16 inch shorter.

The die for Foil is 3.5mm x 0.6 mm. It is a nonstandard metric thread, but is available from American Fencers and others.

The die for Epee is 4 mm x 0.7 mm. It is a standard metric thread and should be available at your local hardware store.

There are several finer points of doing this. I just tap the groove shut, cut the threads and then recut the groove. Others lay a piece of solder in the groove.

You must shape the end of the remaining blade to have a very shallow taper or you won't get the die to start cutting the new threads.

Good luck.

[Purple Fencer]

You must shape the end of the remaining blade to have a very shallow taper or you won't get the die to start cutting the new threads.

Shallow as in more perpendicular to teh blade or more parallel (aka more pointy)?

[fencerbill]

Shallow as in more perpendicular to teh blade or more parallel (aka more pointy)?

I think I mean more parallel. You obviously have to reduce the diameter at the end so it will fit into the die. The diameter can't increase too fast or the die won't start to cut. The manufacturers have machines to do this that can put longitudinal pressure on the die that you can't do by hand.

[^|EDGE|^]

Try LM FIE. They never seem to break. well in my personal experience atleast. I've wasted StM, BF and FS but never an LM.

[sir alasdair]

As a newbie here, i am trying to benefit from your advice and experience with the blades, however, I don't know all of the abbreviations. Could someone list the various manufacturers and the abbreviations associated with them?

I promise, I'll catch up eventually.

I use the Dynamo blades at this time since that's what I was set up with when I had my first foil built for me. I've broken 2 blades since I started fencing, both dynamo, fortunately the first was a club weapon. The second time was my first (only) foil and it broke about an inch from the tip. This was just a week ago.

sir alasdair aka Kirk

[^|EDGE|^]

LM stands for Lammet. these blades are forged in Russia. They have a blue finish to them and are relatively very durable and rather light as well.

BF stands for Blaise Freres. Considered top of the line. These blades are forged in France.

StM blades are made in Ukraine. good and dependable in my opinion. However, I'm not sure what StM stands for actually. (anyone please)

Viniti blades which are forged in russia are considered by many to be the most durable blades out there.

I'm not sure abput FS's origin, but I hate those foils. It may just be me of course. Anyone who can add on info abt the blades, please do so

[Purple Fencer]

StM blades are made in Ukraine. good and dependable in my opinion. However, I'm not sure what StM stands for actually. (anyone please)

S and M are the initials of the brothers who founded the company (but darned if I can actually remember the names....I should've asked Dan DeChain when he was at my house yesterday!)

I'm not sure abput FS's origin, but I hate those foils. It may just be me of course. Anyone who can add on info abt the blades, please do so

FS is Forge Scaroni. This is an old Italian forge that closed down years ago....then Uhlmann recently acquired it and restarted operations.

[HDG]

Scaroni used to make a real nice saber blade back in the dry days.

[KD5MDK]

I've heard good things about Scaroni, so I'm surprised it's not regarded here. Then again, I've never actually used them.

List of blade forges:
List of all blade forges?

[^|EDGE|^]

I know some people who swear by FS blades. They like the feel of it but it does feel a little of balance don't u think?