What Wire / Blade Glue Do You Use?

[Purple Fencer]

Coarse emery cloth sands off the insulation from Allstar/Uhlmann wires quite well.

Comparable to what grit sandpaper? I use the stuff you use to prime a layer of paint for the new coat.

For my that works fine & dandy...I prefer to have the same procdures regardless of wire type...just to keep things simple in my head.

[fencerbill]

Comparable to what grit sandpaper? I use the stuff you use to prime a layer of paint for the new coat.

For my that works fine & dandy...I prefer to have the same procdures regardless of wire type...just to keep things simple in my head.

For sandpaper that uses very fine, fine, medium, etc. it would be comparable to coarse.

It also works fine on wire insulated with just thread and even on Kynar insulated Wirewrap wire.

[Purple Fencer]

Thanks...I'll look into it...in the meatime, I know the sand and burn works.

As for details on the wire design....not this time! This is one design I wanna keep to myself until it's perfected....

[jjrenaud]

just a question, i've saw on the leon paul website a glue-resin, is there someone who had tried it? and what kind of glue is it?

[Frater_Frag]

I prefer to use Cementit. Its my favorit glue, easy to remove the next time, and its also very easy to remove "extra", glue from the blade if you manage to misplace some of it...

If I cant get Cementit, I use 1475, Allstar sells that glue, its good, but not as good as Cementit.

Of course, if you are in a hurry, you can always use crazy/super glue!

One of the best fencers at my club is known for his speedy repairs using that kind of glue, for some reason, it mostly takes place the same morning as our local club tournament!

[twisterfencing]

Thanks...I'll look into it...in the meatime, I know the sand and burn works.

As for details on the wire design....not this time! This is one design I wanna keep to myself until it's perfected....

Guys: Gary Spruill here.
Sam is right! You do in fact have to burn and sand this stuff. I spent the better part of a year working with a wire factory in the North East perfecting this stuff. In fact, it is a 3 insulation set up. The red Sam is talking about is a poly coating on the copper. The second insulation is a silk wrap then the third is a secret sauce (not gonna tell) wrap.

If you want to take a file to the wire, yes you can remove all three layers, yet takes a little work. For all you color blind folks, burn the stuff and then sand with a 100 grit to see a shinny copper. I know you can see that.

Sam is also correct about the soldering on the brass contacts. I only use a 3 or 4% silver solder on these things. Before someone asks, yes I do have a soldering station that can go up that high in heat.

If you are intrested in these wires, contact Sam. I only sell them to vendors or armourer's that I know.

Hope that answers a few of the gaps.

Gary

[twisterfencing]

What company does Gary work for, can you put me in contact with him?

Gary Spruill
email: mrnuvell@aol.com, twisterfencing@aol.com, gary.spruill@nuvell.com
Cell: 9725234595
I work for Nuvell Credit Corp., Div: GMAC/GM

[Mike O]

I use 3M Auto Emblem Adhesive. I believe I read about the use of auto emblem adhesive for wiring blades in the "Big Book of Fencing" a few years back. It holds up well. I've never had a wire pop out. It's a little hard to remove though if you don't have access to an acetone soak tube.

Mike

[KD5MDK]

Isn't everything? Or do you mean it resists dremeling and such very well?

[Mike O]

In my experience if it's not soaked in acetone to break it down first, it resists dremelling somewhat because it tends to heat up and turns a little gummy, unlike traditional super-glue products. It just takes a little more elbow grease if you don't soak it in acetone first.

The up side of the auto emblem adhesive is that it's so durable that it typically lasts the life of the blade so there's no need to re-wire.

[jfarmer]

In my experience if it's not soaked in acetone to break it down first, it resists dremelling somewhat because it tends to heat up and turns a little gummy, unlike traditional super-glue products. It just takes a little more elbow grease if you don't soak it in acetone first.

The up side of the auto emblem adhesive is that it's so durable that it typically lasts the life of the blade so there's no need to re-wire.

I haven't had a problem with it turning gummy on me, probably because I don't go for the Dremel tool until I've scraped it fairly clean. I made a scraper for foil grooves from a broken blade that lets me get most of the glue out after pulling the wire out.

For epees, I use an utility knife to scrape the blade clean, than I carved a couple of wooden tools to level the glue & the wire into the bottom of the "V". Another wooden tool with bits made from broken blades let me scrape any excess glue after it dries.

John Farmer
Coach, Armorer; Oak Ridge Fencers Club

[WordRider]

I voted for Crazy Glue because Man! I'am telling you it works!!!!

WordRider