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Updating electric saber I have a few old sabers that, at one point, were electric. They need sockets, for sure, but aside from that, what would it take, in terms of insulation, etc. to convert these weapons to electric once again -- on the off-chance that I want to use them in a competition again? I have updated the blades to the 2000 specs.
Thanks,
Adam Adam Richter
If saber is the uncivilzed weapon, why is it the only one where the groin ISN'T a target? -
Curmudgeon Emeritus
Array At a minimum, you will want to insulate the pommels ( you can do this with Shoe Goo or Plasti-Dip, or with tape ). Very likely you will want to get an insulative rubber sleeve for the "tail" end of the sabre guards---it slips over the narrow end of the knuckle-bow part and has a hole for the tang of the blade to go through.
It is also advisable to insulate the whole interior of the guard. I have used the spray-on version of Plasti-Dip with good results for this, but any nonconductive paint will work. You can also cut a piece of thin foam rubber to fit. -
Posting Hound
Array Love your sig line!
For the guardm you can insulate by covering the entire interior (EXCEPT the strengthener....you need that bare for conductivity purposes) with paint or tape. Don't go around the edge to the front side of the guard.
On the back part of the guard (by the pommel), you can insulate the back 6 inches by wrapping tape around it.
You can also wrap tape around the pommel to insulate that, 'cause if you take a parry and an uninsilated pommel is touching any part of your lame....touch for your opponent.
On the socket, create a permanent short between the sockets by removing one of the insulators and cranking the nut tight (if it's a bayonet socket, best to just buy an altered one, 'cause they're a paint to do) Similar Threads -
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