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  1. #1
    Senior Member Array I_luv_saber's Avatar
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    Repairing Body Cords

    I've been having a problem with my bodycord. Almost every other day, I have connection problems. Every time, it's the screw holding the wire securely to the prong coming loose. Any tips on how to get the damnable thing to stay? It's a two prong cheapie, not sure of the brand.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Array CvilleFencer's Avatar
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    Most likely, the cord being a cheapy, the problem is that the tolerances between the prong and the screw are not as tight as they should be. Try some loktite or something similiar on the threads of the screw and reinsert it. Be careful not to get any inside the prong where the wire sits or it could affect the connectivity. If the above does not work, buy a decent cord!
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by I_luv_saber
    I've been having a problem with my bodycord. Almost every other day, I have connection problems. Every time, it's the screw holding the wire securely to the prong coming loose. Any tips on how to get the damnable thing to stay? It's a two prong cheapie, not sure of the brand.
    You mean the little tiny screws which squeeze the copper strands into the pin? That's a toughie, I'd echo Cville about maybe some locktite. On the plus side, it's not too hard to fix.

    Here's a hint for dealing with 2 prongs I really like:

    Take a bit of tape (tip, masking, whatever) and put it over the nut ends of the little bolts/screws that hold the connector together. This keeps them from dropping out when you take it apart, and then when you reassemble it makes things really easy. Hope that helps.

  4. #4
    Curmudgeon Emeritus Array Inquartata's Avatar
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    If you can solder-impregnate the bit of wire that's going to go into the pin, that will give the screw something more substantial than tiny, fragile wire strands to grab onto. But the bigger problem is probably that the channel in the plastic shell that holds all the parts and wires is bigger than the gauge of the wire insulation going into it. So every time you use the body cord, the wire is being tugged and it's pulling one side out of its pin. ( This is what happens to mine. )

    Anything you can do to ensure a tighter connection where the wires enter the plug will help. I use a bit of shrink wrap or a bit of plastic insulation from a larger-gauge wire, sometimes supplemented with a application of Shoe Goo.

  5. #5
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    I used to have the same thing, due to many mistakes, so I'll post some of them here:

    Make sure the prong screw is unscrewed all the way, and that you aren't crushing the wires when you put them into the prong. Nowadays, I always put it in, make sure the wires are still straight, then reinsert it.

    Make sure it gets screwed in well after you put the wires in.

    Cut off a good deal of insultion...I probably do about a half centimeter nowadays. A little less insulation won't hurt you, and it allows for more wire to go into the prong.

    You probably have all these covered, but all of those are easier than gluing or soldering.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Array telkanuru's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inquartata
    If you can solder-impregnate the bit of wire that's going to go into the pin, that will give the screw something more substantial than tiny, fragile wire strands to grab onto.
    I don't reccomend tinning the wire before inserting it. In my experience, this causes problems and dosn't fix any.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Array Frank Pratt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbiggs
    Cut off a good deal of insultion...I probably do about a half centimeter nowadays. A little less insulation won't hurt you, and it allows for more wire to go into the prong.
    I used to be a fan of the Leon Paul body cords up util a few years ago (I think they were LP; the ones with brown wire and rubber boots on the connectors?). However, these cords always had to be re-wired because the wires are not stripped; the screws in the connector go through the insulation. The ends of the screws are pointed, which lets them puncture the insulation, but the screws tend to back out over time as they rub against the plastic insulation. I got to a point where I disassembled these things when I got them, stripped the insulation, and put them back together with the screws crimping the bare wired. I finally decided that you get what you pay for and switched to Ulhmann cords. No problems with either one yet.
    Frank Pratt
    Rome Fencing Club; Rome, GA, USA

  8. #8
    Curmudgeon Emeritus Array Inquartata's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by telkanuru
    I don't reccomend tinning the wire before inserting it. In my experience, this causes problems and dosn't fix any.
    What problems does it cause?

  9. #9
    Posting Hound Array Purple Fencer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inquartata
    What problems does it cause?
    Makes the wire too brittle if done improperly....PROPER tinning uses just enough solder to bind the strands togeteher, so I recommend doing it right (i.e....don't ask ME to do it!)
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Array remise's Avatar
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    You have to 'paint' the solder gently onto the wires. It is a delicate process and pays off in huge dividends. If you solder with a heavy hand and just goop it on, that's where the problems come in.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Array I_luv_saber's Avatar
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    Thank for the tips everybody. Though I've been fencing for a little over 4 years, I really have only begun to delve into armory stuff. Very interesting. My main problem being I have no one to show me how to do this stuff, and I'm kind of working on old stuff to kind of teach myself how it works. I am certainly not what you would called a skilled solderer so I'll skip that, but the loktite, and stripping some more insulation I will try... Thanks again!
    "I may disagree with what you have to say, but I shall defend, to the death, your right to say it."

  12. #12
    HDG
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt
    I used to be a fan of the Leon Paul body cords up util a few years ago (I think they were LP; the ones with brown wire and rubber boots on the connectors?). However, these cords always had to be re-wired because the wires are not stripped; the screws in the connector go through the insulation. The ends of the screws are pointed, which lets them puncture the insulation, but the screws tend to back out over time as they rub against the plastic insulation. I got to a point where I disassembled these things when I got them, stripped the insulation, and put them back together with the screws crimping the bare wired. I finally decided that you get what you pay for and switched to Ulhmann cords. No problems with either one yet.
    You could just check the screw periodically and tighten if needed; easy enough on LP wires.

  13. #13
    Posting Hound Array Purple Fencer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by I_luv_saber
    Thank for the tips everybody. Though I've been fencing for a little over 4 years, I really have only begun to delve into armory stuff. Very interesting. My main problem being I have no one to show me how to do this stuff, and I'm kind of working on old stuff to kind of teach myself how it works. I am certainly not what you would called a skilled solderer so I'll skip that, but the loktite, and stripping some more insulation I will try... Thanks again!
    Look at the appearance schedule on my website (in the sig block). If you're anywhere near one of the events I'm vendoring at, I'll be happy to show you some tricks of the armoring trade...you're kinda starfting out like I did (and a LOT of us did!)
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