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Old 09-09-2005, 04:23 PM   #1
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super glue and rubber cement remover.

I am planning to apply a layer of rubber cement after super gluing. Does anyone here know of any solvant what will remove both super glue and rubber cement? A friend told me that paint thinner might work.
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Old 09-09-2005, 04:35 PM   #2
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I'm pretty sure Acetone would be the way to go there. It is an excellent solvent. Just don't use too much of it in a closed environment. It is highly flammable and does not contain the USDA daily recommended allowance of oxygen.
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Old 09-09-2005, 04:59 PM   #3
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I don't think acetone will remove rubber cement but thanks.
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Old 09-09-2005, 05:02 PM   #4
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acetone should remove rubber cement, given that its a polymer. It'll disolve a PVC tube, thats for sure.
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Old 09-09-2005, 09:10 PM   #5
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Acetone pretty much will remove any glue included rubber cement.Two different types of glues won't make the wire stay in any better. And rubber can become brittle on mental
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Old 09-09-2005, 09:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeoldearmourer
Two different types of glues won't make the wire stay in any better.
I believe it does.
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Old 09-09-2005, 10:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReverseLunge
I believe it does.
Probably not....they might work against one another...or not form a complete bond to the metal....and I would guess that Tim's got enough experience to know.
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Old 09-09-2005, 10:59 PM   #8
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Why did you ask for help if you are just going to tell everyone that they are wrong?

Acetone or MEK will pretty much disolve anything that is not metal or glass.
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Old 09-09-2005, 11:35 PM   #9
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RL consider the fact that in the past 30 years I have wire close to 5000 blades and have use about every type of glue. I think i am quaify to tell you that super glue and rubber cement doesn't mix well together. The glue I like the most for a 8 to 12 hr drying time is the swiss glue cemit one layer in the blade and one layer on top then bend the blade about a 3 inch in the middle. And you will be just fine.
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Old 09-10-2005, 12:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epeeisky
Why did you ask for help if you are just going to tell everyone that they are wrong?

Hmm. Why does anyone help him if he's just going to tell them that they're wrong...
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Old 09-10-2005, 04:16 AM   #11
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I didn't ask if anyone believes the 2 glues will work with each other or not. I asked if there is a solvant that will eat away a both super glue and cement.
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Old 09-10-2005, 04:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReverseLunge
I didn't ask if anyone believes the 2 glues will work with each other or not. I asked if there is a solvant that will eat away a both super glue and cement.
Part of your original post:
"I am planning to apply a layer of rubber cement after super gluing."

Tim's response to THAt specific:
"Two different types of glues won't make the wire stay in any better."

Your response to Tim:

"I believe it does."

Thus....you WERE asking -- in a way -- about 2 different glues working together. Tim offered his thoughts on that (seeing that the solvent question had been answered), and you basically said he didn't know what he was talking about.

You COULD always take the information that was offered in the spirit in which it was offered....but that would be out of character for you...

Tim...thanks for the tidbit. It would never ocurr to me to mix glue types, but it's a handy bit of info.

Of course....I actually appreciate new tricks from other armorers....
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Old 09-10-2005, 05:17 AM   #13
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Tim is a legend in his own mind. He doesn't know all that much. He can't go to armorer's college cause he can't read too well. He is constantly reminding us that he has been doing it for 30 years. So what? Quality not quantity.

I have been able to put together a weapon in 5 minutes and 47 second and that includes saw it the tang down to fit a pistol grip. Big deal.
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Old 09-10-2005, 06:41 AM   #14
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RL why don't you just quit posting on the board since it seem that you know all the answer anyhow and don't realize when you get excellent advice from other fencers on this board. By the way I read very well thank you. I think the armourer colleage is a good place to go and get trained as a team armourer for a international team. Why should I pay for something that I could teach very well. I have no desire to be a team armourer because of my knees. Anyone can take a new blade and cut down the tang and put in together in that time frame. But to take one a part clean the blade and remove the old wire put a new one in and and have the weapon ready to go in 7 mins you dont have the skill to do it. RL the day you can walk over to a machine a kiss it to make it work then you are in my class. Sam you can ask Dan DeChaine about that one since he as repented that around the semi commission meetings. The only problem I have with the colleage is had can anyone come out of it as a level one that has never work a national event. Plus the fact they have never ran a full FIE weapon controlled. The day you are ask to supply test equiepement to the Olympics then you might be my equal. But until then you not nearly as good as you think you are. My wife and daughter has more armourer knowleadge then you do.
The people who trained me was Ted Li head armourer for 2 Olympics, Joe Brynes who has been doing armourer worked on a National and international level longer then anyone one else in the US. Plus Dan Dechaine as well the man who teach the armourers colleage.
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Last edited by yeoldearmourer; 09-10-2005 at 06:52 AM.
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Old 09-10-2005, 12:28 PM   #15
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Actually, according to intro to the study guide, there's quite a bit more to getting the Level 1 than just going to the college, including time in the field working as a Level 2 and at certain events...I'll have ti dig it up and post it.

Practical upshot...I have 2 years as a Level 3 before I can go for the Level 2, amd 5 more after that before going for Level 1.

And RL? You are officially a moron
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Old 09-10-2005, 01:52 PM   #16
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I gald that they are trying to stick to the guide then because in the first class Scott came out as a level one and someone else that never work a major NAC or Nationals that what really turned me against the college. I have paid my dues to be recongize as a skill armourer and I am highly cable of running a major event and knowing what armourers to picked for a event.
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Old 09-10-2005, 02:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeoldearmourer
I gald that they are trying to stick to the guide then because in the first class Scott came out as a level one and someone else that never work a major NAC or Nationals that what really turned me against the college. I have paid my dues to be recongize as a skill armourer and I am highly cable of running a major event and knowing what armourers to picked for a event.
I'll post the guidelines when I get home...forgot to bring them to work.

I woudl agree there should be some means of grandfagthering in folks like yourself who have years of in-the-trenches experience at the highest levels...but I hope it can be done without the level of *****iness we saw a couple of years back...
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Old 09-10-2005, 03:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Fencer
And RL? You are officially a moron
Oh great. Now you're an officer at the Moron Institute. Can you send me an "official" moron certificate?

Purple you have you head so far up Tim's dyslexic a$$ that you don't know what is reality anymore.

Tim is an old private limping around Montana singing Yankee Doodle Dandy to himself all day long and you are a furry, balding Italiano trying to sell second rate equiptment at the tournaments while I'm out there fencing like a real man.

Both of you suckers need to go get some head and then you can come back here!

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Old 09-10-2005, 03:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeoldearmourer
I gald that they are trying to stick to the guide then because in the first class Scott came out as a level one and someone else that never work a major NAC or Nationals that what really turned me against the college. I have paid my dues to be recongize as a skill armourer and I am highly cable of running a major event and knowing what armourers to picked for a event.
Tim, if you were talking about Scott Harkey, then you were misinformed. First of all he has worked NAC's. Also, he was level 2, not level 1. The only reason he had got that high was because he had worked a number of NAC's. I am not sure, but I believe he first met Dan at the Veteran World's a few years back.

Tim, you should take the test. For someone like you it will be easy. Right now the Armorers are treated like second-class citizens. At LBI, this year, they are changing the pay scale to match the USFA. Can you picture, them paying Dan or Carl less than a referee, who is not even good enough to work the round of 16 at a NAC?

Because of that, I will be working as a volunteer for Dan, not as a paid Armorer for LBI.

I sure you will be glad they have been sticking to the guide since the beginning.
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Old 09-11-2005, 04:15 AM   #20
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Here are the armorer level requirements as stated in the armorers manual from the college:

Apprentice: The Candidate...
1) Will have demonstrated a dedication to quality armoring
2) Will have demonstrated a desire to learn and improve his/her skills as an armorer
3) Will have demonstrated an acceptable knowledge and understanding of the basic technical rules of fencing
4) Will have demonstrated an ability to diagnose basic faults in fencer’s personal equipment and to make basic repairs
5) Will have a knowledge of the tools and test equipment required and will have demonstrated an understanding of how to use them properly.
6) Will demonstrate an ability to work with other armorers, fencers, officials and the public.



Level 3: The Candidate...
1) A good knowledge and understanding of the technical; and related rules of fencing
2) An ability to do accurate diagnoses of problems related to the fencer’s personal equipment
3) An ability to perform routine maintenance on fencer’s personal equipment
4) An ability to perform diagnosis and normal maintenance on reels
5) An ability to perform normal equipment control tasks
6) An ability to work with other armorers, fencers, officials and the public in a professional manner
7) A visible dedication to the art of armoring.

In addition, the candidate for certification as a Level 3 armorer must meet the following requirements:

1) Must possess (or have consistent access to) sufficient test equipment to perform basic equipment control tasks
2) Must have worked as an armorer and/or apprentice armorer at local, divisional, sectional and national-level completions for at least 2 years.
3) Must possess the basic tools requires for basic maintenance and repair of fencer’s personal equipment
4) Must have gained the respect of his/her peers as an a