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  1. #1
    Just Joined Array
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    need help with rewiring foil

    I need to rewire my foil...can someone help me with the steps please?? Thanks you very much

  2. #2
    Din Älskling Array esskreemr's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Array yeoldearmourer's Avatar
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    Gald I check the boise site the picture show a major no no you only pull 2 inches of the wire thought the barrel then put the barrel on with the 2 inches sticking out. That way if by chance you tiginten down the barrell and the wire get caught up you don't lose the whole wire just 2 inches of it. But what can you except from them Boise people anyhow. Come on the live in BOISE for Godsake. Its nice to have a 5mm open end wrench for the barrel it does tear it up has bad. Visited my web site for good tools www.yeoldearmourer.com
    Tim Loomis
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Array SJCFU#2's Avatar
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    look under "ask the expert: armory"

    Try using the search function on fencing.net. Look for "wiring blades" - it will lead you to Dave Nevel's artical on wiring blades (posted in "About Fencing\Ask the Expert: Armory").

    I second the recommendation that you don't pull more than a couple of inches of wire through the barrel before tightening - sooner or later you will knick the wire, and its a lot less of a problem if it's near the end that you will probably end up cutting off anyway.

  5. #5
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    One last website to try, it has flash videos and pictures which you might find helpful.

    http://www.leonpaul.com/armoury/armoury.htm

    (Click on "foil", it's reasonably self-explanatory.)

  6. #6
    Posting Hound Array Purple Fencer's Avatar
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    Something you might want to consider (don't know if Neevel put this on his guide)...while in the blade cleaning process, chamfer the point end of the blade grove a little bit...makes it less likely you'll catch the wire. I just finished wiring around 100 blades for my inventory and only caught the wire 2 times.
    Need fencing equipment? See me at H.O.M. Fencing Supply

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  7. #7
    Senior Member Array mollusk's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Purple Fencer}. I just finished wiring around 100 blades for my inventory and only caught the wire 2 times.[/QUOTE]

    Dang, how many chains do you have for blade bending?
    If you see my little red rooster, please drag him home
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Array yeoldearmourer's Avatar
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    You build a rack to hold 10 to 15 blades at a time. I have one on my garagre wall that holds fifty at a time.

    www.yeoldearmourer.com
    Tim Loomis
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  9. #9
    Posting Hound Array Purple Fencer's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=mollusk]
    Quote Originally Posted by Purple Fencer}. I just finished wiring around 100 blades for my inventory and only caught the wire 2 times.[/QUOTE

    Dang, how many chains do you have for blade bending?
    Well now...here's a good example of a difference in technique from armorer to armorer.

    Tim, correct me if I'm wrong on this....

    Tim's family is involved in the fencing biz...thus, he has a lot of hands to help out. Also, he probably has the time to let the glue set, so multiple chains are necessarry.

    I'm a single person operation...my cats don't help a great deal, and my wife and I have differing hours, so she's not involved. Plus, I use an accelerant to set the glue I use (a little more rubbery than the typical CA glue...cuts down on the popouts as long as I prep the blade properly). I lay the glue down, dip a q-tip in the accelerant and run it down the blade...wait a few seconds, it's done! I don't need multiple chains.

    'Course, for this last wiring binge it didn't hurt that I was working in my kitchen for 3 days because we were having the floors replaced in my house...
    Need fencing equipment? See me at H.O.M. Fencing Supply

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  10. #10
    Senior Member Array yeoldearmourer's Avatar
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    The most important part of wiring a blade is a clean blade. I don't care what type of glue you use if the blade is not clean before handed the wire will pop.
    On brand new blade I use a degrease to get the oil off of the blade. On used blades I soak them in actetone and wipe them down. At home I used my rack I built to hold 50 blades at a time and used the swiss glue cemeit and let them dry over night which is the longest part of the process. Atcual to glue and wire 50 blades take about a 1hr and half for me alone with my son help we can do 100 blades in 2 hrs. If you wonder why I get done a extra 50 blades in half hour with my son help it easy he put on the barrel and wire and then I pull the wire though and glue them. Plus I been doing this for 30 plus years. Me and Ted li has been know to rewire a blade in between DE bouts which we time out to about 7 mins or less using CA glue with Act. But here again that just pure experience on are part.
    Tim Loomis
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  11. #11
    Senior Member Array mollusk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Purple Fencer
    Well now...here's a good example of a difference in technique from armorer to armorer.
    Well, I wouldn't call myself an armorer. I just happen to take care of all of my club's foils and many of my club mates' foils.

    Quote Originally Posted by Purple Fencer
    Plus, I use an accelerant to set the glue I use (a little more rubbery than the typical CA glue...

    Got it. I don't use CA glues, so I need to let them cure for a few hours. It would take me a week to do 100 foil blades using one "chain". (My "chain" is a slightly modified bungee cord.)

    Is it telling secrets to mention the glue you use? All the CA glues I've ever used eventually become brittle.
    If you see my little red rooster, please drag him home
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  12. #12
    Posting Hound Array Purple Fencer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mollusk
    Well, I wouldn't call myself an armorer. I just happen to take care of all of my club's foils and many of my club mates' foils.
    Welcome to our world....that's how a lot of us got started!


    Is it telling secrets to mention the glue you use? All the CA glues I've ever used eventually become brittle.
    Not a secret at all...I use a specific glue from Devcon -- HV1200. You can't get it in stores, you have to get it from a distributor. Go to devcon.com and find one in your area. It's about twice the cost of superglue and the bottle's a lot larger...)

    Like Tim said, regardless of the glue used, getting the blade clean is the first and most important step...you want to see bare, shiny metal in that groove before you ever pull out that new wire. I use a Dremel with a diamond cutting wheel to gringd out anything like glue residue, acetone residue (even after soaking to get the wire out), etc.

    NOTE: If you buy a new blade that comes with a color coating -- like the StM blades I sell -- you must get that coating out of the groove or you'll have a popout...even if the blade's fresh from the factory.
    Need fencing equipment? See me at H.O.M. Fencing Supply

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  13. #13
    Senior Member Array remise's Avatar
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    I have always used brand X superglue and never had a pop-out. I may have inadvertently been preventing it by using a dremel and the diamond wheel when putting new wires in. Recently, I've been alternating superglue and epoxy, which is flexible, strong, but takes 24 hours to cure. I've noticed that the wires last longer with epoxy.

  14. #14
    Member Array wingnut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeoldearmourer
    But what can you except from them Boise people anyhow. Come on the live in BOISE for Godsake. Its nice to have a 5mm open end wrench for the barrel it does tear it up has bad. Visited my web site for good tools www.yeoldearmourer.com
    Kind of a jerk aren't ya.......I guess the one good thing about Boise is that it isn't Mountain Home......

    Oh, and what good tools does your site have again?

    And that has to be one of the most poorly designed sites I think I've ever seen. Hope your armory skills aren't anything like your web design skills......
    Last edited by wingnut; 01-11-2006 at 04:48 PM.

  15. #15
    Member Array wingnut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by esskreemr
    Actually, to clarify the link is:
    http://www.salleboise.com/new_wire.htm

    Steve

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