Could this be a reel???

[Mr Epee]

Would it be possible to crack the case on this guy and convert it into a reel?

Rectractable Electric Cord

I imagine that you would have to break whatever makes it stop once you pull it out... but that might be pretty easy to do.

[lefty_monster]

Hey, it'd be a LOT cheaper.

that is...if you could rig the wires up properly, which i'm assuming could be done if you had some extra plugs from dead reels laying around.

And then there's the problem that you pointed out...

[Craig]

Only one way to find out. Have at it!

Originally Posted by Mr Epee

Would it be possible to crack the case on this guy and convert it into a reel?

Rectractable Electric Cord

I imagine that you would have to break whatever makes it stop once you pull it out... but that might be pretty easy to do.

[Mr Epee]

There is a similar one on the sam's club website... if they have it in stock locally I'm going to pick one up this afternoon...

If I can find my wallet.

I spent 30 minutes looking for my wallet and lost my keys in the process.

Now I can't find either one.
------------------------------------

I'll report back [about the reel (not my wallet/keys)], but if anybody has tried this before let me know.

[SJCFU#2]

If I'm reading correctly, the cable is only 40 ft long - a strip is closer to 46 ft long.

Another concern might be resistance. Each wire in a reel has a maximum resistance from socket to socket of 3 ohms (m.55). The cable itself probably has very low resistance but that may not be true for the slip rings and brushes (or whatever connector they use to transfer current between moving and stationary parts).

As I understand it, UL is primarily concerned with making sure that 120V A.C. running through the wire doesn't cause it to overheat and start a fire, not making sure that small amounts of low voltage current are conducted.

[Mergs]

Just put a pulley on the connector end, use a floor cord and you have a variation on the pulley 'reel-less' system!

[DHCJr]

There is one company that already has done it, we will call them Z. It was bad for a number of reasons. Besides the problem with length (required minimum 20 meters ~ 66 feet M.55.3) and the resistance, there was the problem with the springs. They were not designed for a constant in and out at speed.

[KD5MDK]

In theory it has a 12 month warrenty... (I suppose they'd notice the modifications)
There's nothing that says you can't add an extension when you mount the socket either, and my club has underlength practice strips for season use. Hmm...

[Mr Epee]

I had planned on replacing the electrical cord with a slightly longer/lighter cable, so I'm not too concerned about that aspect...

yes, 20m is officially required but less than that would be needed for club use.

Good point about the constant in/out...

[Joe biebel]

We have used a very similar spring loaded extension cord at my club and in my division for a portable, hybrid, floor cable system. I removed the ratched/lock device and increaed the spool diameter by building it up with material. Removed the power cord and attached a thin nylon rope (maybe 1/8"- 3/16" diameter) placing a clip at the end to attach to the floor cable. We never used the electrical contacts. I doubt that they would support good continuity on the fly.

They are about 15 years old and have never had a broken spring. Of course increaing the diameter of the reel reduces the number of winds on the spring and using the reel as a compound device reduces the amount of cord played out by about half. The reel shown in the photo appears much more substantial than the cheapies we used. The advantage to this system over a bungee system is the ease and speed of setup and take-down.

[Mr Epee]

My hands are totally butchered, but I am making progress.

Should be testing this afternoon.

Be prepared to marvel at my $20.00 reel.

[lefty_monster]

Now make more and start selling them! You'll make a fortune!

Now all you need to start manufacturing are aluminum foil strips and you'll really make your fortune.