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Thread: Rust :(

  1. #1
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    Rust :(

    I fence sabre, and I've recently been getting some rust spots under the arms of my lame` as well as on my bib of my mask. Does anyone have any advice for removing the rust without damaging the lame`, or mask/bib?

    Also I'd like to take this time to introduce myself to the community here. I'm Ben, I fence with Providence Fencing Club, in the New England Division, my primary weapon is sabre. Howdy?
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Array shyHeidi's Avatar
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    Hiya Ben. I'm Heidi and I'm shy. I don't fence electric. I don't fence sabre. I don't parry right. I don't give advice. I post messages anyway. Isn't that helpful?

    Welcome to the forum.
    Highly addictive.
    Even more highly time consuming.
    Sleep is a good thing.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Array Haze's Avatar
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    Haha that's ok, I don't even fence right now

    I post messages too though.

    and sleep is an excellant thing.

    I never realised how under-rated it was until I became a student.

    Welcome.
    I wish I could think of something witty to write here.

  4. #4
    Member Array Morra[PrFC]'s Avatar
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    Ben,

    There is a very nice armorer from RIFAC who is very helpful with such things. I will introduce you to him. He has good advice on how to wash a lame.

    -Christina

  5. #5
    Armorer Array
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    Are we talking rust from blades rubbing off on the lame, or copper oxidation?

    If it's rust from blades, it won't affect the conductivity; it's just staining the backing fabric. If the appearance is a concern, there are some spot removers that will work on rust you can use prior to washing it.

    If it's copper oxidation, then the main thing is to wash the lame regularly to keep the oxidation from building up on the lame. The backing fabric will probably retain the green stain, but as long as the copper is clear, it'll be fine. Handwash your lame in a plastic tub or sink with a mild soap (Woolite or Ivory Snow) and a bit of ammonia. Don't wring it or scrub hard, just swish it around gently by hand, leave it soak for a bit if it's very dirty, and then rinse it under running water and hang dry it. Especially for copper lames it's best to wash fairly regularly (at least once a month). If you really want to be diligent, rinse it off in the shower or wipe it with a wet washcloth after each use. Don't store it folded in your bag- keep it on a hanger so it can dry after each use.

    Masks can also be washed in the same way, and then left to air dry (it'll take longer than the lame will, though you could use a hair dryer or set it next to an in-wall heater to speed the process).
    If the bib is too far gone to pass conductivity at tournaments, Bill Hall in Boston will re-bib sabre masks for people (it's generally only worth it for good FIE masks). As with lames, don't leave your sweaty sabre mask in your bag between uses.

    Given their cost/lifespan ratio, sabre masks are the piece of equipment where it probably makes the most sense to have a good one reserved exclusively for tournament use, and a cheap one that you use for practice.

    -Dave

    [ 04-29-2002: Message edited by: neevel ]</p>
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  6. #6
    Curmudgeon Emeritus Array Inquartata's Avatar
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    I have heard lemon juice recommended, but have never tried it myself, because as mentioned rust is purely cosmetic...
    Use the Shift key, people! Keyboard manufacturers everywhere are ineffably saddened when you ignore what they made just for you!

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