so the club got some new toys, and two of them are the bg electric foil buzzers w/ bayonet plugs. one of them works fine no problems. but the other doesn't always register a touch. i found if i push the bayonet plug when it's plugged in to the side it won't register a touch. if i unplug it and flip it upside down, and put it back in, and push it in the opposite direction, it won't register a touch either. so basically i think there's a weak spot or something...idk.
If it is not the weapon, then there must be a short in the assembly of the box. If the weapon is unplugged, do you get a touch? Most likely the answer is yes, since you said sometimes. You should take off the cover of the connector. Most likely they are not using Leon Paul wire, which means they bare the wire. How much is excess bare wire is there? Can you push it to cause a connection?
got a short qn here and dun wan to start a new thread, so forgive me for hijacking this one.
seeing that we have such a wide diversity of talents in here, can anyone come up with an electrical drawing of how to make a box that will light up whenever the foil tip is depressed (disregarding off or on target). what is stumping me is a lack of electrical knowledge and how to get the LED to light up when the circuit is broken. this little device would be alot lighter and cheaper than the ones sold out there and can be used to training at home (esp for flicks).
Can someone tell me if this would work? R1 and 2 are resistors, with R1 having a much higher resistance than R2. So current should flow from batt to the closed foil circuit to R2 and back, bypassing R1 cos of the higher resistance. Only when the foil circuit is broken do the current flow thru R1 circuit and the bulb lights up.
can anyone tell me if this will work? R1 has a higher resistance than R2 so normally when foil circuit is closed current will flow thru R2, but when foil circuit is broken current will flow thru R1 circuit and the bulb will light up.
can't help with the BG boxes, as I don't have one... sorry.
Whiplash-
You should probably put it in another thread, but what you want to do is eliminate R2 in your diagram and put the foil plug AROUND the diode (i.e. foil is parallel to diode). That way, when closed (not hitting anything), voltage around diode is ~0V -> no light. When you hit and break the circuit, voltage goes up and turns on diode. Probably wouldn't hurt to put a small resistor in series with the foil as well. Since Power = V^2/R, bigger R gives you smaller P and longer battery life.
Problem is... it would probably be such a short light (esp. on flicks) that you wouldn't see it. Better to hook it up to a transformer (watch out, AC!) and then to a small buzzer. Good luck.
can't help with the BG boxes, as I don't have one... sorry.
Whiplash-
You should probably put it in another thread, but what you want to do is have the connection for the foil BETWEEN R1 and the diode (i.e. parallel to diode). If R1 > R2 by at least 3-4 times (assuming 1.5V battery), the LED will stay off when tip is up. Use decent sized R1 and R2. Since Power = V^2/(R1+R2), bigger R1+R2 gives you smaller P and longer battery life.
Problem is... it would probably be such a short light (esp. on flicks) that you wouldn't see it. Better to hook it up to a transformer (watch out, AC!) and then to a small buzzer. Good luck.
i tried it and i works. i only used 1 resistor and forgo the one leading to foil. u are right abt the lights though. i was thinking salvaging some old electic doorbell that rings even though the circuit is closed for juz awhile.
i tried it and i works. i only used 1 resistor and forgo the one leading to foil. u are right abt the lights though. i was thinking salvaging some old electic doorbell that rings even though the circuit is closed for juz awhile.
If you bypass both R1 and diode, you are essentially shorting the battery... you'll drain the battery VERY quickly that way. Assume resistance of wire is ~0 Ohm. Then power is P = V^2 / ~0 Ohm... power is VERY high! Consider my previous suggestion