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Old 03-01-2005, 09:33 PM   #1
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Help with disassembling a sabre

Okay, this is the situation. I've had a sabre with a broken blade in it for months now, and I kinda want to take it out and put in the spare blade I have. However, the plastic nut came off in my first attempt to take it apart, leaving only this short metal tube thingy that absolutely refused to budge when I took the wrench to cranking it. Also, the tang is too long for me to get the hex in there tightly enough to twist it off from the inside. I've tried everything- prying it off, putting a chisel on the tang and hammering it out...nothing works. Can any of you guys help me out here, or should I just scrap it?
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Old 03-01-2005, 10:03 PM   #2
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Use an allen key 6mm

use an allen wrench. it fits inside the end of the nut. do not grap the nut on the outside with pliers or a wrench. The allen wrench is 6mm. after you get it off use a vice to press the 2 halves back togeter. you need the plastic covering to be legal for electric use
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Old 03-01-2005, 10:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeric28
use an allen wrench. it fits inside the end of the nut. do not grap the nut on the outside with pliers or a wrench. The allen wrench is 6mm. after you get it off use a vice to press the 2 halves back togeter. you need the plastic covering to be legal for electric use
I think by "hex", he was referring to the fact that the allen wrench doesn't reach.
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Old 03-01-2005, 10:10 PM   #4
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I missed that part. In that case. Put the blade tip down in a vice, close the vice. Use a pair of vice grips (pliers that lock close) lock em on tight and twist counter clockwise. if you slide off an are just maring the nut use some wd 40 and tap the side of the nut with a hammer. Sometimes when stuff is rusted penetrating oil and vibration can break things free. if all else fails put some heat on the nut before turning. it's important to not let the vice grips slide off they need to bite into the metal on the nut to turn it. otherwise you just mar the nut and won't be able to grip it as well next time
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Old 03-01-2005, 11:09 PM   #5
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You could also use a bench grinder or a file to carve a couple of flat spots for the wrench to grab onto....probably best to toss it anyway.
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Old 03-01-2005, 11:58 PM   #6
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There is another trick beside the oil or WD-40, Tighten the nut. This may sound counter productive, but sometimes after a hard hit the pommel may appear to be cross-threaded. What has actually happened is the pommel threads have been pushed against the tang thread.

As has been suggested place the pommel tightly in a bench vise. Use a cresent wrench or locking wrench and try tightening a little and then reverse. This may take a few tries. Don't give up and let us know.
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:14 PM   #7
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Beginning countdown to the inevitable blowtorch suggestion:

10....

9....

8....
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Old 03-02-2005, 10:32 PM   #8
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Oh, silly Inq. That was my FIRST reaction.
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Old 03-03-2005, 12:31 AM   #9
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Give that the blade is broken, at the worst you can just cut off the top of the blade at the guard, and pull it off from that end. Doesn't help the nut, but a new one is like $1.50

Quote:
you need the plastic covering to be legal for electric use
Isn't wrapping the nut in tape good enough? It just has to be insulated I thought.
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:40 AM   #10
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UPDATE- my girlfriend got it done in 5 minutes with a pair of pliers and some dishwashing soap. I suppose I'll listen to her next time she says to let her try it...now, the trick is to get the metal and plastic parts of the nut back together. Luckily, I have a hammer.
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welted 24/7
Luckily, I have a hammer.
Maybe you should let her do it...
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:46 AM   #12
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Just get a blowtorch and burn it to the ground. Its a sabre for christ sake!
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:29 AM   #13
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Ah, success. Not only did I successfully pound the little metal tube and the plastic nut back together, but it also annoyed the hell out of the noisy schmucks who live next door to me. That'll learn 'em. The sabre is now complete.
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