New Blade Problem

[jspierre]

So, I bought a new blade with the idea that I'd learn something if I'd install it myself. Didn't seem like such a big deal, then problems.

Basically, I stripped the wire, pretty far I guess, then wound it around the post on the socket, under the screw. Then, the wire broke. So I unwound the thing, and discovered the wire is so short, I can't reattach it. Then, the casing around the speghetti where the wire enters the bell shifts, and bare wire is touching the bell.

Anyone have any tips what to do? The blade is brand new? Has my botch job mean I have to rewire the thing?

[damianip]

Welcome to the rewarding and fun-filled world of armoury.

A couple of items:

• Leave spare wire when you cut it initially, but don't leave so much that it's cumbersome. Leave enough for two or three "break offs".
• When you put the spaghetti on the wire, jam it into the end of the wire slot at the end of the blade. An eighth of an inch will do. Stack the two wires if it's an épée.
• If you're handy at soldering, you can extend the wire and then put a longer piece of spaghetti over it. Recommended only for dire circumstances.

Remember, be gentle with the wire. The wire's durability is related to how well it is fixed to the weapon.

Paolo

[neevel]

After you rewire the blade and are ready to assemble the weapon again, be sure to leave yourself an decent amount of excess wire length inside the gaurd. You can just fold it up under the pad, and contrary to a myth floating out there among some referees, you can use a bit of tape to hold it down (if you're paranoid, just use clear tape so they can easily see what's under it). Get a longer length of spaghetti tube if you need to. Having the wire break at the socket isn't an uncommon occurence, so you want to leave a good amount of excess wire that you can trim back and reattach when that happens.

I recommend attaching the wire to the socket after the weapon is fully assembled, so you don't have to worry about the socket shifting around. This will also make it easier to ensure that the wire and tubing aren't getting squashed by the front of the grip as you're tightening it down-- just hold the wire straight out as you put the handle on so it stays centered inside the notch on the handle. For 2-prong sockets, getting tools like bent-nose tweezers, bent-nose pliers, or an automotive ignition wrench will be a real aid in getting the wire attached.

-Dave

[sallearmourer]

Only in foil you can tape it down. Epee no tape is allowed on the wires at all. If you are good with a solder gun you can add a piece of wire and save youself the trouble of rewire. The solder joint is actual stronger than the wire around it.

But when rewire the mistake most make is to cut the wire to match the length of the insulation. Leaveing no spare wire for breaks. I replace the insulation on every rewire I do.

Tim

[edew]

It's ok in epee to tape down the wires, as long as the wires are taped down with separate tapes in different locations. The point is, if you tape the two wires under one tape, it could have been possible that the insulation (spaghetti tubing and the wire's own insulation) is cleared out and by using your thumb, you can short the two wires together. If you tape the wires down at separate locations, that possibility can't happen. You can't use the bell guard to help in shorting out the connection as the bell guard is the ground and no signal will reach the "dead" wire. Or at least, the signal reaching the ground line will override the signal reaching the A line.

[sallearmourer]

Edew accorring to Mr. Dan DeChaine of the FIE Semi- Commsison no tape is allowed on the epee wires at all. This is where I get my information from were did you get yours that allowed tape on them.

Tim

[damianip]

From the rules section m.5:

[quote]

2. Inside the guard there must be a cushion (padding) sufficiently wide to protect the electric wires from the fencer’s fingers. The padding on the inside of the guard must be less than 2 cm thick and must be arranged in such a way as not to increase the protection which the guard affords the hand.
The connections must be so arranged that it is impossible for the fencer to break or make contacts while fencing.
On foils and sabers, the wire must be protected by an insulating sheath.
On épées, the two wires must be protected by two insulating sheaths, one on each wire.
Both the wire and the insulating sheath must go right up to the socket.
In no case may uninsulated wires project beyond the point where they are attached to the socket (cf. m.29, m.31). <hr></blockquote>

I don't see tape mentioned anywhere. Whether SEMI has released an edict on that, I don't know, but as far as the rulebook is concerned, there seems to be nothing specifically prohibiting tape on the wires.

Paolo

[swordsen]

It may not be mentiooned but if you show up on strip with tape on your wires you can expect a yellow card.

[Chris]

[quote]Originally posted by sallearmourer:
<strong>Only in foil you can tape it down. Epee no tape is allowed on the wires at all. If you are good with a solder gun you can add a piece of wire and save youself the trouble of rewire. The solder joint is actual stronger than the wire around it.

But when rewire the mistake most make is to cut the wire to match the length of the insulation. Leaveing no spare wire for breaks. I replace the insulation on every rewire I do.

Tim </strong><hr></blockquote>

I save SOME of my 'spaghetti' - only the nice long pieces...so I don't over trim the wire, as Tim suggested; also, taking several wraps around the screw (or whatever you are fastening it to) can be bad news, as the wire overlaps itself, and you tighten down on it, the wire can actually cut itself if you make it really tight; sometimes a full loop stays intact, sometimes it is really only held on by a little bit, even though you wrapped it around, and around...

C'est La Vie!