10-06-2004, 02:21 AM
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#1 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: calgary,ab,canada
Posts: 2,415
| epee problem... ok, my epee wire popped out during practice. everything is still connected since it still conducts. how do i secure it without damaging or possible breaking a connection?? what type of glue should i use??? |
| | | And now for this message... | |
10-06-2004, 02:31 AM
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#2 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 4,804
| I tend to use superglue for spot wire jobs. maje sure the groove is clean befoere regluing. Give it a swipe with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol or summat. |
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10-06-2004, 04:47 PM
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#3 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 326
| The best glue I've found for blade wires is called "Pliobond," and it's sort of an industrial-strength rubber cement. It holds well (almost too well when it's time to clean it out to re-wire a blade), and it's flexible. Trouble is, it's hard to find in a squeeze-tube. I've had to take to ordering it by mail from a place that sells camera-repair supplies (of all things). That said, any glue which can adhere to both the metal of the blade and the fabric of the wire insulation -- AND if flexible enough not to crack or pop out when the blade bends -- will do. |
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10-15-2004, 05:30 AM
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#4 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Wokingham, Berkshire, England
Posts: 435
| I suggest using a contact adhesive (I use a product called Evostick) in a tube - since these types of repairs can only be considered temporary and never look pretty. I do not use the adhesive in a contact way (ie I dont wait for the glue to become tacky and then go for an instant bond).
Apply a line of glue carefully in the groove of the blade then bend the blade to bring the wire into blade groove - leave the blade in this bent condition for 15 mins or so until the glue takes effect (You can normally find a table/worktop/wall bars or chair that can restrain the blade for this time). Like the previous post this glue is flexible so will not pop-out again and its forgiving, so the blade does not need to be perfectly clean for the repair to work. If in a hurry warm the glue to accelerate the repair - trap the blade adjacent to a radiator or use a hair dryer on a warm air setting.
The Armourer |
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10-15-2004, 02:59 PM
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#5 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: TX en route to KY
Posts: 1,357
| Its definitly possible to re-glue. Though sometimes the wire will just keep coming out. I'll use Duco when possible, because it dries quickly (and the stuffs cheap). I tend not to use superglue because it will crystalize and crack out of the blade. Not that I don't carry a tube.
The only other thing that might be of use is to tell you this. If you can't keep the wire in the groove, even with re-gluing, and you don't want to pay for a new wire... you can be a cheap b@stard like me. If you have an acetone bath, you can take the epee appart and put it in with just the couple of inches up to the tip out of the acetone (don't put the tip in or you melt the plastic cup that holds the contacts). When the wire has come free, you can wipe it down, make sure the groove is clean, and then reglue it.
I've done it a couple of times when I've been short on wires. They held just fine until the blade broke.  |
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10-15-2004, 03:35 PM
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#6 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 4,804
| Curiosity, what kind of epee is it... I head a bunch of vinitis with bad wire jobs came in recently. |
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10-15-2004, 04:52 PM
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#7 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: calgary,ab,canada
Posts: 2,415
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by telkanuru Curiosity, what kind of epee is it... I head a bunch of vinitis with bad wire jobs came in recently. | fleche blade. |
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10-15-2004, 04:58 PM
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#8 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: TX en route to KY
Posts: 1,357
| Ouch... glad I didn't buy my fleche blades pre-wired like I was planning. Got them dry and did the wiring myself.
So, though somewhat off topic for the thread- do you like the blade at least? I appreaciate that mine are so light and hold up well so far. My wrists are thanking me.  |
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10-15-2004, 10:34 PM
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#9 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: calgary,ab,canada
Posts: 2,415
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by MyraTrue Ouch... glad I didn't buy my fleche blades pre-wired like I was planning. Got them dry and did the wiring myself.
So, though somewhat off topic for the thread- do you like the blade at least? I appreaciate that mine are so light and hold up well so far. My wrists are thanking me.  | i have about 5 fleche blades. being a grad student, there's no way i can buy anything higher quality and have quantity. my fleche blades have been good. really light, just flexible enough. i've had one in particular for about 7 months now. its seen my first 5 tournaments and survived. when i get a "real" job i'll get better stuff...  |
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10-16-2004, 12:41 AM
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#10 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,537
| try the LP non maraging epee blades. Cheaper and better than fleche blades.
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10-16-2004, 05:40 PM
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#11 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: TX en route to KY
Posts: 1,357
| Quote: |
i have about 5 fleche blades. being a grad student, there's no way i can buy anything higher quality and have quantity. my fleche blades have been good. really light, just flexible enough. i've had one in particular for about 7 months now. its seen my first 5 tournaments and survived. when i get a "real" job i'll get better stuff...
| glowstix, you summed up my thinking too- as a graduate student, I'm ready to declare the fleche blade the blade of choice! One day, maybe I'll be rolling in the money (haha, riiiight) and will own more pricey blades. But Fleche will do for now.  |
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