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09-09-2004, 08:40 PM
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#21 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Charlottesville VA
Posts: 3,091
| I just scrape at it for a few seconds with a bare razor blade and it works just fine. I have heard that emory paper works well but I honestly do not know what that is! 
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Just another lost soul saved by the (hit) First Church of EPEE!
Bona Na Croin. "Neither Collar nor Crown"
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09-09-2004, 09:20 PM
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#22 | | Armorer
Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Long Beach, CA / Las Vegas
Posts: 3,514
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Originally Posted by CvilleFencer None that I have seen have been "tucked" like this. I played with this for a while but found that with the thick and strong insulation I use it would occasionaly give random off targets on really hard blade actions and that the screws did not tighten down all the way. | From your desciption, I would say you are using a Leon Paul connector. On 2-prong, I would put the spagetti under the nut. The Leon Paul, because of the size of the screw would cause the problem you describe, but there are 2 solutions that can be used. First the spagetti is cut on the bias, so that only the bottom goes under the screw. The second is to place the spagetti is the space between the side of the connector and the screw. Then when you tighten down the screw, you do not have the movement associated with breakage.
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09-09-2004, 09:35 PM
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#23 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Charlottesville VA
Posts: 3,091
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by DHCJr First the spagetti is cut on the bias, so that only the bottom goes under the screw. The second is to place the spagetti is the space between the side of the connector and the screw. Then when you tighten down the screw, you do not have the movement associated with breakage. | Those would both work I think. I am wiring up a couple of club blades this weekend and I will give it a whirl. Thanks DHC!
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Just another lost soul saved by the (hit) First Church of EPEE!
Bona Na Croin. "Neither Collar nor Crown"
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09-10-2004, 12:36 AM
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#24 | | Armorer
Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 1,624
| I use a small-gauge wire stripper (22-30 gauge) available from Micro-Mark for about $15. The 30 gauge nock is the right size for most foil & epee wires. You still need to take some care to avoid nicking the wire, but once you know how to do it right it's very fast and simple. As for the varnish on German wires, there's no substitute for that bit of fine-grit sandpaper.
-Dave
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09-10-2004, 06:25 PM
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#25 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: on my happy pretty warm cozy side of the firewall
Posts: 104
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Originally Posted by CvilleFencer I just scrape at it for a few seconds with a bare razor blade and it works just fine. I have heard that emory paper works well but I honestly do not know what that is! |
emory paper is very fine sandpaper, like 200-600 grit (that's rocks per square inch). | |
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09-10-2004, 06:50 PM
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#26 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Charlottesville VA
Posts: 3,091
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by Torg emory paper is very fine sandpaper, like 200-600 grit (that's rocks per square inch). | Oh, so it is like auto body paper! Cool. I actually use that for cleaning up blades and putting the shine back on them and on guards(usually in 600-1000 grades), I just call it auto body paper and buy it in big 12"/12" sheets! Thanks Torg!
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Just another lost soul saved by the (hit) First Church of EPEE!
Bona Na Croin. "Neither Collar nor Crown"
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09-15-2004, 01:53 PM
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#27 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 335
| I've found that a file also works pretty well to scrape off the insulation, and it's more durable than sandpaper. You still have to be delicate with it to avoid nicking the wire. Just lay the wire across the tip of your finger and give it a few swipes, then roll it to get at the other side. | |
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