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Senior Member
Array a wiring problem- wire pops out To be more specific, I've wired a lot of epees (largely as an armorer to the club) and never had problems with the wire coming out of the grove shy of extreme abuse. That is, with the exception of two old (1993) FIE blades that are mine personally. And every time I wire them, the last 4-6 inches (at the tip) will invariably pop out. I'm getting really tired of the hassle it causes and the eventual need to rewire.
Could this be particular to the blade (I can't say I'm a big fan, but the blades were $20 apiece when I needed blades)? Am I suddenly becoming innept wiring MY blades? Is there something thats a better quick fix than another. There's only so many times you can run duco underneath and "reglue" it. -
Senior Member
Array Try rewiring it without putting the blade in a bending jig or chain and cup set. Make sure the blade is straight. When you clean the blade, acetone, scrape it, sand it, WD-40 and whatever else ya got. Could be the glue, I use bostik to great effect, but you might want to use super glue or something else. Rewiring is a skill that is never quite mastered. I have yet to see a flawless wire job. "I've seen things you people wouldn't believe. And from this side only! The flight of a half-man, half-bird. Dinosaurs nuzzling their young in pastures where strip malls should be. Cookies on dowels. All those moment, lost in time. Gone, like eggs off a hooker's stomach. Time to die" -Phil Ken Sebben -
Senior Member
Array I have an absolutely flawless idea!!
Switch to Saber. "You can honestly say that you can settle for a life full of repression and denial?" "And the dinner parties. You can never forget the dinner parties." -
Member
Array  Originally Posted by D+F+P=Hadouken! Try rewiring it without putting the blade in a bending jig or chain and cup set. Make sure the blade is straight. I also believe the problem might be from you putting too much bend in your blade while wiring. It keeps the wire from breaking on extreme bends but it'll also cause the wire to pop out when you have your blade straight -
Senior Member
Array and not have the fun of pretending "MY" weapon was superior? 
And then I'd lose the joys of carying around an insane repair kit and spare springs and screws and wires and tips and and and and... -
Senior Member
Array
I also believe the problem might be from you putting too much bend in your blade while wiring. It keeps the wire from breaking on extreme bends but it'll also cause the wire to pop out when you have your blade straight
hmmm... that could well be. And actually stands to reason thats the best explanation for whats been going on. The grove isn't all that shallow, so... -
Senior Member
Array I'm beginning to think that putting the blade in a bend jig is not the best way to do it, easiest definitely, but not the way to keep the wire in the blade. I wire my blades without having them bent, and I've never had a wire pop out... after rewiring 18 blades (not alot, but enough) I just dont see alot of merit in the old fashion chain and cup method. "I've seen things you people wouldn't believe. And from this side only! The flight of a half-man, half-bird. Dinosaurs nuzzling their young in pastures where strip malls should be. Cookies on dowels. All those moment, lost in time. Gone, like eggs off a hooker's stomach. Time to die" -Phil Ken Sebben -
Senior Member
Array I had a similar problem with my epees. The armorers here on the board were kind enough to point out that sometimes oil/gunk can prevent glue from adhering properly. I was advised to sand, scrape, dremel - you name it the blade BEFORE the glue process.
I followed the advice given to me, did everything I normally would do (including put the blade in a bender) and viola! No more problem. -
The purpose of the bending the blade while gluing is to pre-tension the wire so that it doesn't break when flexed, but as rtran pointed out putting too great a bend while wiring can make it more likely to pop out when the blade is released.
Without seeing the blades and how you're wiring it, I can only re-iterate that you should completely, thoroughly clean the blade groove down to bare metal (not a spot of old glue, insulation, or grease present), glue it with a moderate bend and the wire held secure at the tand, and let the glue thoroughly cure before using.
I assume that you're bottom-gluing when you use Duco, Myra (i.e., run the glue down the blade first, then put the wire in). Thick cements like Duco won't fill in around the wire adequately if you top-glue only. Do these blades tend to take upwards bends near the foible? That can also encourage the wire to come unglued.
-Dave "I love deadlines. I love the whooshing noise they make as they go by."
-Douglas Adams -
Armorer
Array I have never had the problem you described and I have tensioned the blades every time. There are two suggestions, that have not been mentioned, in case they have not occurred to you. First, I do not tension the blade the same for each user. When you hit, do you barely bend the blade. If so I would tension the blade less, while for someone who drives the guard all the way in, I would do more. Second, the amount of glue is important. This is one instance where less is more. If as the blade is drying there are globs of glue, the glue will dry unevenly. Also, after the first glue has dried, I put on a very light overcoat. This can be done while the blade is untensioned.
This is not to say to ignore the suggestions on cleaning and the others as they are all good suggestions. Donald Hollis Clinton, Jr. DHCJr@juno.com
To Teach is to Learn (Japanese Proverb)
Knowing the rule book by heart means nothing, if you don't understand the rules. -
Senior Member
Array good suggestions all. I think I may change several things I've been doing, see what I come out with. But German wires aren't exactly nickle or dime... so I've got one wire left, and its going on my "good" blade.
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