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  1. #1
    Senior Member Array whtouche's Avatar
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    Body cord, bayonet rubber sleeve?

    Almost all my body cords are PBT bayonets, and the rubber sleeve that covers the end of them is very thin. As a result, every one of them either has a hole, or has been severed completely. My question is, are these sleeves required? Will my bodycords fail inspection because they lack (complete) rubber sleeves?
    And does anyone know any home remedies as far as making your own? I'd rather not have to buy a bunch of new ones.
    Thanks.
    "Their interpretation is, however, refuted most elegantly by your system of radioactive atom + amplifier + charge of gun powder + cat in a box"
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  2. #2
    Armorer Array DHCJr's Avatar
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    I am assuming the PBT design is the Leon Paul copy. The sleeve is for 2 reasons, the least part is insulation, the second is more important and that is to act as a strain relief for the wire.

    You can go without or you can find a substitute. I have an original Camamari body cord from the 84 Olympics. They wrapped both connectors with athletic tape. Another way is to go to a electronic store. Most will have covers for aligator clips. Find the right size and the color you like and you are done.
    Donald Hollis Clinton, Jr.
    DHCJr@juno.com

    To Teach is to Learn (Japanese Proverb)

    Knowing the rule book by heart means nothing, if you don't understand the rules.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Array telkanuru's Avatar
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    Heat shrink for wires should likewise work, and it can be shrunk with a lighter. I would advise against the Radio (S)hack version, tho. You'd probly have to cut it off for fixes, but it's cheap and easy.
    The only way to atone for being occasionally a little over-dressed is by being always absolutely over-educated. -Oscar Wilde

  4. #4
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    Doesn't PBT offer replacement parts for sale? LP does on their website.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Array whtouche's Avatar
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    Well yes, but I've been spending alot of money on fencing-related items lately(as always happens around this time of year) and wanted to avoid any unnecessary expenses.
    Thanks for all the replies. Much appreciated.
    "Their interpretation is, however, refuted most elegantly by your system of radioactive atom + amplifier + charge of gun powder + cat in a box"
    -Albert Einstein, in a letter to Erwin Schrödinger

  6. #6
    Curmudgeon Emeritus Array Inquartata's Avatar
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    Or you can use Shoe Goo to repair and thicken the sleeve. Wet your fingers thoroughly and you can easily mold and smooth the stuff to shape. It's liquid ( artificial ) rubber, so it insulates great---I use it to reinforce my ( 2-prong ) body cord wires where they emerge from the plug, to insulate nonelectric sabre pommels for electric use ( I like the heavy counterweight ones that they don't sell insulated ), even made myself a couple of grips by applying the stuff to a wood core, and repaired commercial sabre grips which have worn through to the plastic cores. It's very versatile...the key is to keep your fingers wet so it doesn't stick to you, just to your work.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Array whtouche's Avatar
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    This may be breaking off to a different subject, but I have a question about insulating pommels with shoe goo.
    I've used it a few times now to repair the soles of my fencing shoes, and have been thinking about using it to insulate the pommels on my sabres(I use the same heavy, non-insulated kind - which I usually tape). The question is, how well does it hold up on the pommel, such as if the pomme needs to be tightened(or loosened) with pliers?
    Tape I've found never survives such tweakings and I always have to retape. Is it robust enough to withstand a plying?
    "Their interpretation is, however, refuted most elegantly by your system of radioactive atom + amplifier + charge of gun powder + cat in a box"
    -Albert Einstein, in a letter to Erwin Schrödinger

  8. #8
    Curmudgeon Emeritus Array Inquartata's Avatar
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    Yes. I usually put on about three coats, letting each dry before applying the next. Once the last has cured for a few days it's quite hard and all of the ones I've so treated are still in use despite occasional plying...

    Normally I just tighten mine with my hands, but I have used pliers on occasion and as long as you're careful the stuff survives them. Just don't let the jaws slip and gouge; grip the pommel firmly. And if you do manage to scrape a little bare spot ( it happens more often from being hit by weapons, frankly ) you need only apply a dab of the Goo to repair it, though it's not ideal for on-the-spot repair because it needs time to dry...

  9. #9
    KC
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    cheap and easy fix, wrap some electrical tape around it. It will get you through until you can afford a replacement part.

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