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Senior Member
Array really need to know for sure... i'm trying to buy an electric epee(or two) for my first competitions. we primarily fence dry in my club so i'm not too knowledgeable about the electric stuff. on all the vendors online i see electric epees ranging from $45 to $150. not that i can afford the FIE stuff anyway. there's ECONO, FLECHE, FLECHE wide, etc...i know the explicit FIE stuff(maraging blade,etc..) isn't necessarily required for USFA local competitions but what is required?? with all the options out there and not being able to actually be at the vendor checking equipment in person, how do i go about choosing which weapon(s) to buy??? -
Senior Member
Array You might want to ask your coach's advice. "Never give in, never give in, never, never, never, never . . . never give in except to convictions of honour and good sense." Churchill, 1941 -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by glowstix i'm trying to buy an electric epee(or two) for my first competitions. we primarily fence dry in my club so i'm not too knowledgeable about the electric stuff. on all the vendors online i see electric epees ranging from $45 to $150. not that i can afford the FIE stuff anyway. there's ECONO, FLECHE, FLECHE wide, etc...i know the explicit FIE stuff(maraging blade,etc..) isn't necessarily required for USFA local competitions but what is required?? with all the options out there and not being able to actually be at the vendor checking equipment in person, how do i go about choosing which weapon(s) to buy??? Hey Glowstix,
Even the most "budget" electric epee will suffice for a tournament. However, there are some questions that you need to be able to answer.
1. Do you prefer stiff epees, or do you prefer a weapon with a little flexibility. For stiff, I'd recommend you try Blaise Frere blades. Triplette sells them under the name "Triplette" and Uhlmann/Allstar sells them as well.
As to flexible blades, I have a friend in San Antonio that likes the StM gold blades.
2. French grip or pistol?
I can think of some other things, but you're just beginning so I'll shut up. ... without remorse for the past, confident in the present, and full of hope for the future, [d'artagnan] went to bed and slept the sleep of the brave.
- The Three Musketeers -
Member
Array  Originally Posted by D'Artagnan1673 1. Do you prefer stiff epees, or do you prefer a weapon with a little flexibility. For stiff, I'd recommend you try Blaise Frere blades. Triplette sells them under the name "Triplette" and Uhlmann/Allstar sells them as well.
As to flexible blades, I have a friend in San Antonio that likes the StM gold blades.
2. French grip or pistol? I have to agree with Dart on these. You can find both types relatively cheap. I recommend the BF blade though, I find stiffer blades to be good for beginners. A few other things you might want to specify when buying a blade however.
1. You might want to specify how much of a bend you're like in the blade. I know you can bend it yourself but if you're unsure or don't want to risk breaking the blade just ask the vendor to do it for you before they send it out.
2. French or German points. Again since you're a beginner I would recommend choosing whatever your club uses since it'll be easier for you to scrounge up spare parts. (I myself am in the process of switching from french to german since i moved and my old club used french and my new one uses german). Parts do add up very quickly.
3. French of German Socket/bodycord. Again you might want to consider going with what your club regularly uses. I've seen some people try to connect french bodycords into german sockets and spent about 10-15 minutes just trying to remove it afterwards.
If you rather stick to your own kit regardless of what your club member uses. I would recommend using the German system for everything but you'll probably get alot of pros and cons from various people on both types. -
Senior Member
Array I was thinking on the points and sockets as well but I feared I was going to go over his head. I agree that for the time being, it might be best to go with what the club has until you get familiar and comfortable working with your own weapons.
My club is traditionally french all the way. I have gone German with everything but epee socket. I really dislike all the extra work and frustration I get when hooking the German sockets. My coach gave me a hard time Tuesday for "making myself incompatable with the whole club", but I buy parts in bulk so that I can avoid being caught needing a screw and not having one. ... without remorse for the past, confident in the present, and full of hope for the future, [d'artagnan] went to bed and slept the sleep of the brave.
- The Three Musketeers -
Senior Member
Array thanks guys...when we do fence electric in the club, we use the three prong socket and french tip. for tournaments i can borrow body cords from the club but i would like my own weapons.
for me, i never really considered flexibility with epee blades before. i always considered overall weapon weight(weapon HAS to be LIGHT) over flexibility. i do flick to the forearm a lot(or try to) so i guess a flexible blade is in order. -
Senior Member
Array LOL!!! In epee, all you can use is three prong! 
If your club uses french tip, then go with it for now.
For the weapon, I would recommend going to www.thefencingpost.com and ordering an StM electric epee w/ french point. With the 20% discount, its going to cost you around $56.00. You can't beat that! Call them and make sure they are using an Uhlmann Ultralight guard. ... without remorse for the past, confident in the present, and full of hope for the future, [d'artagnan] went to bed and slept the sleep of the brave.
- The Three Musketeers -
Din Älskling
Array If you've been fencing for a while and know you're going to stick with it, I have one suggestion; always buy the best that you can afford. I don't fence epee, but I know that when it comes to your blades, cheaper blades can turn to putty in just a few bouts. I put out about twice the price for FIE blades, and couldn't be happier, in terms of durability and reliabilty, the extra money is well worth it.
If you're a newbie, go for the cheap stuff first and gradually replace it with higher quality. That way, you don't break the bank on expensive equipment that you'll never use. If you're like the rest of us, you'll find that competitive fencing can be more addictive and expensive than some drug habits... Have fun "Since when does being a patriot in America mean shutting your mouth?"
--- zz,zz,zz,zz,zz,zz! -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by esskreemr .... If you're like the rest of us, you'll find that competitive fencing can be more addictive and expensive than some drug habits... Have fun  Not that I've ever had a drug habit, but I wouldn't doubt it! I have spent over $200.00 just this week on misc. wires, grips, points, tips, screws, springs and nuts. Then a tournament costs $13.00 on gas + 20-40 for entry fees and food/drink.
One other thing. Those TCA blades of mine are cheap and have lasted for years. They aren't as flexibel as you may like them, but they last!
Last edited by D'Artagnan1673; 04-30-2004 at 04:25 PM.
... without remorse for the past, confident in the present, and full of hope for the future, [d'artagnan] went to bed and slept the sleep of the brave.
- The Three Musketeers -
Posting Hound
Array  Originally Posted by glowstix i'm trying to buy an electric epee(or two) for my first competitions. we primarily fence dry in my club so i'm not too knowledgeable about the electric stuff. on all the vendors online i see electric epees ranging from $45 to $150. not that i can afford the FIE stuff anyway. there's ECONO, FLECHE, FLECHE wide, etc...i know the explicit FIE stuff(maraging blade,etc..) isn't necessarily required for USFA local competitions but what is required?? with all the options out there and not being able to actually be at the vendor checking equipment in person, how do i go about choosing which weapon(s) to buy??? The help here has been good...but if you're ALSO wondering about what happens at a tournament, a complete list of clothing/equipment you need, what to expect, etc...go to my website http://www.homfencing.com and click on the link under the logo that says "Going to your first tournament?? Read THIS!"
Feel free to pass it around to your sallemates...that's why I wrote it! -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by Purple Fencer The help here has been good...but if you're ALSO wondering about what happens at a tournament, a complete list of clothing/equipment you need, what to expect, etc...go to my website http://www.homfencing.com and click on the link under the logo that says "Going to your first tournament?? Read THIS!"
Feel free to pass it around to your sallemates...that's why I wrote it! thats a cool site, thanks...only thing though (not to be a punk about it) but must the font size be that big?? cool site nonetheless -
Posting Hound
Array  Originally Posted by glowstix thats a cool site, thanks...only thing though (not to be a punk about it) but must the font size be that big??  cool site nonetheless Oh....you mean the main site, not the competitor's guide!
I'm actually going to have the sire rebuilt in the near future...by someone who actually KNOWS what she's doing (i.e...not me) -
Posting Hound
Array Also remember that you need at least two weapons at competitions.
If your primary weapon fails (gives you a yellow card) you'll get a red card if you don't have an axtra epée next to the piste.
Anyways, good luck with the comp! -
Senior Member
Array I like #5 at the end of that guide! Ah, the people I've seen who have both been hit and got carded for turning to look back at the box. Actually, can you remove it? If everyone stops looking at the box, how am I to get my extra points? The only way to atone for being occasionally a little over-dressed is by being always absolutely over-educated. -Oscar Wilde -
given the criteria you gave, i'd do this: you're new so i'd get two cheap blades. i'd suggest fleche blades, though they have a tendancy to take some nasty bends, or triplette blades, which are a little more stiff and still inexpensive. both are very good for the price but you can occasionally find a bad batch (kid on my team bought a fleche blade at a tournament that broke the same day). hostin pluses are good too, though they vary in flexibility and i don't think they're being made/sold anymore. my first two blades were hostin pluses and i still have them both as my last line of backups. get german parts, too. might cost an extra few bucks but its worth it.  Originally Posted by Purple Fencer Oh....you mean the main site, not the competitor's guide!
I'm actually going to have the sire rebuilt in the near future...by someone who actually KNOWS what she's doing (i.e...not me) if you're looking, i design web pages for a living and i'd work very cheap (pm me if you want)
/end shameless self promotion -
Senior Member
Array whats the difference between the french and german tips??? -
to make a long story short, german tips cost more but are better engineered to prevent the barrel from denting (which means you need to rewire the blade) and the tip slides a little more smoothly in the barrel than french. -
Posting Hound
Array  Originally Posted by glowstix whats the difference between the french and german tips??? Actually, Noodle, the barells on Germans dent easily...same on Frenchies...they're just too thin...
As far as your question, glowstix, the readily apparent differances are ones of design. The screw holes in a French barrel are smooth...the screws go into little threaded holes in the collar just above the base of the tip.
The German has teh holes in the barrel threaded and the collar has no holes...it looks like an empty tire rim and the screws simply project into the empty space.
THUS...the parts are incompatible...you can't canibalize French parts to repair a German tip...even the springs are different...the Frenchies are long and narrow, the Germans are short & squat. I wouldn;t even use a French wire with a German tip assembly...
This is for foil...you CAN get away with it in epee, but it;s still a good idea to standardize all your parts.
As far as Noodle's comment..the Germans ARE made with tighter tolerances; they don't wobble when depressed like the Frenchies can...thus making for a smoother and more reliable action. The other differance that's a REAL joy when you're in a rush to replace a part is that -- because the German barrel is threaded -- you don't need to completely remove the screws in order to remove the tip if you need to stretch or replace the spring when it starts failing the weight test. Also. yo don't have to worry about lining up the screw holes...just drop the tip in and tighten the screws. Fighting to get the screws back in under pressure is NOT good for your focus!
The major DISadvantage ot the German barrel is that the screw heads project out of the barrel and have a disturbing tendancy to get mashed down to the point where it's really hard to get the screwdriver blade in. -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by glowstix whats the difference between the french and german tips??? Hey Glowsitx,
If you are not total confussed by Sam's explaintion about the finer points of FOIL points, lets talk epee (I believe that is what this thread is all about, hmmm?)
The machining of German (Uhlmann or Allstar) points is superior to that of all French points (Prieur, Sport 7, HPC). The Tip of the German epee point is slightly larger in diameter than the French Tip (the part that goes into the barrel is called the tip - that is what you thread the silly screws into). The German have silver plated springs, most French points do not. The screws of a German point can have a class A thread (a more defined thread profile - sharper points and valleys), but not always (it depends on who got the contract that year) and the French screw are at best a class B thread ( less defined thread profile, more like a sine wave than an actual thread). German's provide a copper wire that is double insulated, first with a clear varnish, then with silk. The French provide a steel wire with a double wrapping of either cotton or silk. Copper will withstand more flexing before failure than steel will - simple fact because it is a softer metal.
As for the purchase of your first epee, D'artag-NOT (your first post) gave you the best advice. When in doubt ask the coach. If you are looking for confirmation, ask fellow fencers that have been traveling to tournaments (for more than one year).
Next try several grips on for size at the club, ask other fencers if you can handle there weapon (with your glove on of course - just to be safe- jk - you do need it on so you can get the proper feel of the grip). If you find one you like, ask the owner what the grip is called and what size it is (this is very important when placing an order.)
If I am hearing you correctly, you are interested in a light and flexible blade. There is none lighter than the Leon Paul "unbreakable" epee blade. They also have the lightest bellguard on the market (I weighed them -sick I know). Also by putting a small cant in the tang (the part of the blade you put the grip on) you can fool your body into feeling like the blade is lighter than it actually is (it has to do with body mechanics and the use of different muscles).
If French points are the ones primarily used in your club then I would stick to them. There are two types of sockets currently in use on epees, French and German style, findout which one is used the most in your club and use that one.
Lastly, contact the vendor you are planing on buying the epee from. Talk to them, if you can understand their English that is a good sign that they will understand what you are trying to tell them. As a vendor, I take pride in every weapon that I build. It is my reputation on the line if you get a shody job, that is why I try to do my best. oxxx[[======================= \\Toll Free 866-SWORD4U Slay more with a Claymore -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by Swordmaster As for the purchase of your first epee, D'artag-NOT (your first post) gave you the best advice. When in doubt ask the coach. My blushes, Watson!!
Actually, the reason I said this was that this is exactly what I did several weeks ago when I decided the time had come to buy my own very first electric weapon (foil). It arrived on Tuesday--can't wait to try it out at practice tomorrow! "Never give in, never give in, never, never, never, never . . . never give in except to convictions of honour and good sense." Churchill, 1941
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