gorilla glue

[suregrip]

Would anyone on this board recommend gorilla glue? It advertises itself as being the strongest. Many of my club members use CA/superglue to set their wires with, but they're usually back in the armory re-gluing after several days.

Is anything better than CA for wires popping out?

[Artisan]

Originally Posted by suregrip

Would anyone on this board recommend gorilla glue? It advertises itself as being the strongest. Many of my club members use CA/superglue to set their wires with, but they're usually back in the armory re-gluing after several days.

Is anything better than CA for wires popping out?

You don't want to use Gorilla glue. It foams up as it cures (needs some h20). You'll end up with a Puffy Looking Blade.

[Purple Fencer]

I'm going to try Devcon's HV 1200 glue...they tell me it's superglue with a bit of rubberiness to it...just gotta find it first...I'll let'cha know what happens...

[CutLass]

Originally Posted by Artisan

You don't want to use Gorilla glue. It foams up as it cures (needs some h20). You'll end up with a Puffy Looking Blade.

Art- can you tell me more about the Gorilla Glue? What do you mean by "needs some h2O"? I used it once and it did foam up all around the joint and made a real mess that was nearly impossible to clean up. What is it supposed to be used for since it foams up like that! I used it thinking it would be strong - which is what it advertises - and instead it was a complete waste and damaging to the project. Are you saying that adding water helps it?

[npkeith]

Gorilla glue needs a little water to start the curing process - wipe one surface with a damp rag, or a spritz from a fine mister. It is great for wood working- paint some on, clamp the joint and wait. The foam is from the CO2 that is released as part of the curing process. Don't try to wipe it up as it comes out - it's like taffy. Wait till it sets, and shave it off with a chisel or razor blade. I had the same thought about blade wiring until I saw the foam.

I think the best bet is to look for longer chain cyanoacrylates - they tend to be more flexible than plain super glue - VetBond is one that 3M makes to use instead of stitches in animals. Dermabond is the human version (over the counter as "liquid bandaids) - very expensive, and requires a special catalyst to make it set.

[Capt. Slo-mo]

Gorilla glue is the adhesive of choice for many installers of hardwood floors, when laid over a wooden subfloor. As mentioned, it swells a bit as it sets, which adds some support to minor cavities or imperfections in the subfloor.

While strong, I wouldn't recommend it for wiring a blade!

[Artisan]

Originally Posted by npkeith

I think the best bet is to look for longer chain cyanoacrylates - they tend to be more flexible than plain super glue - VetBond is one that 3M makes to use instead of stitches in animals. Dermabond is the human version (over the counter as "liquid bandaids) - very expensive, and requires a special catalyst to make it set.

I few weeeks ago I posted a link to a CA-like glue that claims to be a cyano-epoxy, uses an activator and is supposed to be less brittle than regular CA's: http://www.coolchem.com/

People here immediately beefed at the price. I wired up an epee blade with it, and its wire has not come loose, despite a couple bad "kinkers" I don't know yet if it cleans up easily with conventional solvents, or if it requires their solvent. For all I know it could be regular CA with the "activator" being the standard CA kicker to speed up the cure. Smells different though, and seems to work better.

And yes, Gorilla glue is good stuff. Npkeith has it right - best use is for wood and other textured / building type materials. Good gap filling, but objects must be clamped because of the expansion. Its like Urethane spray foam insulation (one brand is Great Stuff). Does not come off...anything...fingers...clothes...tools, etc...

[ztron24]

'Zap' is my fav wiring glue. Maybe 'Zap-a-gap' is the full name, i'm not sure. it's a model airplane glue, dries in about 5 minutes, never had a problem with it coming up, disolves easily in acetone. occasionally i'll use it in conjuncture with 'zip-kicker', which will instantly dry it, meaning you can be wired and on the strip in a matter of minutes. zip-kicker will turn the glue an ugly looking white, however. some people don;t like that, but when you need the speed... both can be ordered from houseofbalsa.com not cheap, but worth it...

[grotto]

I swear by "PLIOBOND" it is a very flexable glue that does not shatter like CA/superglue clean up is easy, though it is a smelly sticky glue as it tacks up. All I know is I don't have to rewire / repair like my club members do typically I end up rewiring because of a spliced wire at the guard etc, or when a blade breaks and I have to wire a new one.

It's available at ACE hardware in a 2 oz tube. ( you don't want the can with brush )

[neevel]

Suregrip-

Problems with wires popping out are generally due to not having the groove completely cleaned out before rewiring, or not tensioning the wire enough when you glue it. I use cyanoacrylates, and with the blade prepped right I don't have troubles with wires coming loose. As long as your cleaning and gluing technique are good, just about any reasonable choice of glue (be it CA, epoxy, GP cement, etc.) will work well.

For the record, I use Zap CA (the thin, instant cure stuff) most of the time. For epees, I find that Zap-A-Gap (the thicker, gap-filling variant) works better, as it will more completly surround the wires in the wider groove. Most hobby shops also carry "generic" cyanoacrylates in the same viscosity/cure-time grades as the Zap line. There's a Flex-Zap CA, which has a little more resilency when cured.

I usually leave my bottle of Zip-Kicker at home. Zap CA cures fast enough that it's usually not needed (Jeff Rosen made the great observation that only Americans would think of an accelerant for instant-cure glue ). The moisture in your breath will usually congeal Zap CA enough to keep it from running too far from the spot you're gluing. If it seems like you're having to use huge amounts of the stuff to get the wire to stay down, then the wire has probably stretched too much, and no amount of glue is going to hold it in place for long.

-Dave

[Tireur]

If you want to glue an anvil to your ceiling, Gorilla Glue is the thing. But, it does foam up, big time.

[Swordmaster]

Suregrip-
As you can see from these posts Gorrila Glue is not for blade wiring. I also use Zap products, mostly CA. I agree with David, if you don't have a good clean, active surface, no glue will work well. By active surface I mean metal that has been either scratched with a utility knife or hit with a Dremel with a cutoff blade in it. Cynoacrylates cure best by bonding metalic ions together. By activating the surface of the blade, you are creating the necessary ions for a good bond.
I find the Flex Zap and Zap a Gap to be more flexable then the CA, but the curing time is just too long for my taste and the Zip Kicker tends to bring them back to the same hardness as the CA.

Purple Fencer -
I am also a Devcon Distributor if you would like me to send you a tube of HV1200, of course you will need to keep it in the frig when you get it - pretty volatile stuff.

If any one is interested in trying the best superglue on the market drop me a line.

[laughingduelist]

I second the Anvil comment (having done something similar as a joke). The other problem with Gorilla glue is that it takes a very long time to dry.