wiring question

[suregrip]

This would be a query for those experienced with wiring foils. I've done quite a few with no problems, but there are several fencers in the club who, once the blade is wired, will bring it back several hours later usually with 2 problems.

1. The tip has either come completely off, or almost completely off.

2. There are spots in the wire where the insulation has disappeared.

For #1, I've tried using Locktite, and even glue on the tip. Sometimes both.

For #2, I'm completely at a loss. The wire is deep in the groove, and so I can't explain it.

Again, there are no problems with other fencers, just these same few. They hit hard, flick hard, and generally go through a lot of replacements. It is something I'm doing wrong or is this just their style of fencing? Help!!!

[dunastor]

My guess would be it's their style of fencing.

[suregrip]

Well, I asked the vendor I purchase from last week, and that's exactly what they told me also. However, I just thought I'd get some feedback from others who do this kind of work.

[dunastor]

Well i try to not get involved in wiring (that's the cool thing about sabre )

but logic clearly dictates that when you are proficient in wiring foils, and just a few people, with a similar and "rough" manner of fencing are the ones that always need repairs, it's not a lack of wiring skills that's the problem

I also ocassionally fence sabre with a foil (i wouldn't really call it foil fencing), but my wire lasts for quite some time now. Maybe i'm just lucky...

[Purple Fencer]

#1....are you sure you tightened the barrel down during the process? Even after all the foils I've done, I still occasionally forget.

#2....here's a possibility...if they were German wires, the insulation may have been scraped off by the very tip when you puled the wire through. Sometimes the groove at the tip isn't cut very well, and the wire catches as it gets pulled through. not a major prob for French wires, since the cloth-wrapped insulation is harder to remove, but the vinyl insulation on German wires isw much more delicate.

[neevel]

For problem 1, you also want to check whether the threading on both the blades and the barrels is in good shape. Blades (particularly cheaper Russian/Ukranian and Chinese blades) will sometimes not enough turns cut at the tip. If you're using old barrels, the threading may have become worn down.

Another possibility is a hairline crack in the barrel. The crack may not be obvious without a close inspection, and you'll be able to tighten the barrel like you normally do and not see any continuity problems when you test it, but as the weapon get beaten about in use the crack will expand and allow the barrel to come loose.

Sam stated a likely cause for 2. With a new blade, it's a good idea to use an appropriately shaped riffler file to widen out the start of the groove a bit and remove any burrs that could catch on the wire insulation.

-Dave