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02-27-2004, 07:58 AM
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#1 | | Member
Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Ohio
Posts: 31
| Saber wiring (How to...?)
I have a dry saber that I would like to convert into an electric one; does anyone know of any resource online that gives specific instructions on how to do this? I tried searching some of the past posts but came up empty. Obviously it can be done. Or is it a hassle?
Thanks.
- LDR | 
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02-27-2004, 08:02 AM
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#2 | | Curmudgeon-in-Chief
Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Somewhere in your nightmares!
Posts: 23,534
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by LDR I have a dry saber that I would like to convert into an electric one; does anyone know of any resource online that gives specific instructions on how to do this? I tried searching some of the past posts but came up empty. Obviously it can be done. Or is it a hassle?
Thanks.
- LDR | All you need to do is attach a socket for the body cord plug...and insulate the pommel. Voila. Unlike the other weapons there are no wires or moving parts. The beauty of sabre.  | |
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02-27-2004, 08:05 AM
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#3 | | Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Scotland
Posts: 4,630
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by Inquartata All you need to do is attach a socket for the body cord plug...and insulate the pommel. Voila. Unlike the other weapons there are no wires or moving parts. The beauty of sabre. | Yep, specially created for the Sabre mind... | |
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02-27-2004, 08:10 AM
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#4 | | Curmudgeon-in-Chief
Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Somewhere in your nightmares!
Posts: 23,534
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Originally Posted by Gav Yep, specially created for the Sabre mind... | Yes...the strength of simplicity...the keen, cutting intellect...the no "screw"ing around attitude...the...  | |
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02-27-2004, 08:28 AM
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#5 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: MD
Posts: 1,089
| A few other points to bear in mind -
1. The socket must be shorted. You can short the contacts on a foil socket, however many suppliers now sell "saber" sockets that are already shorted.
2. The interior of the guard must be insulated to help prevent shorting the weapon against the lame (paint is usually sufficient).
3. In addition to insulating the pommel, the exterior of the guard must also be insulated within 7-8 cm of the pommel (you can probably use the same tape you use to insulate the pommel). | 
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02-27-2004, 11:16 AM
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#6 | | Member
Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Ohio
Posts: 31
| Thanks, everyone; sounds easy enough. SJCFU#2, you eluded to using tape on the pommel and nut. I'm assuming electrical tape, then....? | |
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02-27-2004, 12:35 PM
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#7 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: MD
Posts: 1,089
| Electrical tape will work. Tip tape holds up better. | |
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03-01-2004, 04:04 AM
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#8 | | Curmudgeon-in-Chief
Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Somewhere in your nightmares!
Posts: 23,534
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Originally Posted by SJCFU#2 Electrical tape will work. Tip tape holds up better. | And best of all is Shoe Goo, ie artificial rubber in a tube. Used to resole athletic shoes, it can be shaped and formed easily if you keep your fingers wet. A couple of layers and your guard will probably be cut and dented to pieces before the pommel insulation wears through. ( I favor the big, globular, heavy pommels that they don't sell already insulated, instead of the light plastic ones you need a hex wrench to tighten---darned newfangled things!-----so I have to insulate them myself. ) | |
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03-01-2004, 04:16 AM
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#9 | | Immortal
Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Heidelberg, GE
Posts: 5,452
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by Inquartata And best of all is Shoe Goo, ie artificial rubber in a tube. Used to resole athletic shoes, it can be shaped and formed easily if you keep your fingers wet. A couple of layers and your guard will probably be cut and dented to pieces before the pommel insulation wears through. ( I favor the big, globular, heavy pommels that they don't sell already insulated, instead of the light plastic ones you need a hex wrench to tighten---darned newfangled things!-----so I have to insulate them myself. ) | That's a pretty good idea--there is also liquid plastic to dip tool handles to insulate them.
MR
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