Wiring the Blade

Once the blade is cleaned and prepared, and we know the point parts are in good condition, it’s time to proceed with the wiring itself. Gently unfold the new wire and straighten it with your fingers. With epee wires, take care not to get the two wires twisted around each other. It’s a good idea to inspect the point-end of the wire to verify that the insulating cup is undamaged, the solder or crimps are secure, and (for epee) that the two contacts are of even height. Also check along the length of the wire(s) to make sure the insulation is intact. Lastly, testing the wire with an Ohmmeter or continuity tester can save you a lot of wasted effort in the event you have a defective wire. You should see less than 1 ohm with a new, factory-made wire.

You may want to use a threadlocker to help prevent the barrel working loose in use. A hand-undoable formula (Loctite 242 “Blue” or equivalent) is what you want—the stronger formulations (e.g. Loctite “Red”) need to be heated in order to be undone. Apply a couple of drops to the end the blade, so that the threading is filled-in. The threadlocker will take some time to cure, so you won’t be rushed to get the barrel on.

Run just enough of the wire through the barrel so that about 2-3 cm of the end are sticking out the bottom. Doing this means that, if the wire gets caught and damaged as the barrel is screwed onto the blade, you only need to cut off that little bit at the end and try again. Thread the barrel on by hand, holding the end of the wire down in the groove. Once the barrel is hand-tight, use a pair of pliers to tighten it down further (you’ll want to either put the blade in a vise, or hold the blade in one pair of pliers while using another to turn the barrel). Tighten until you just start to feel resistance, and then go another ¼ to ½ turn. Over-tightening can crack a barrel, even one that’s new and in perfect condition (you’ll hear a characteristic ‘ting’ sound if this happens).