Point Parts

The last item to check are the point parts that will be used for the blade. The barrel, in particular, needs to be in good condition, since once it’s on it can’t be replaced without re-wiring the blade again. Closely inspect the barrel for any cracks, deformations, and dents that project into the interior wall of the barrel. A cracked barrel should be thrown out and replaced. An easy way to test for deformations is to insert a tip into the barrel and check that is slides smoothly up and down. An expanding mandrel is available for German-pattern foil and epee points, which may be able to repair a dented barrel (it will also work with French-pattern epee points). A 4.5-mm reamer can also be used to clear away dents in German foil barrels, but this removes metal and weakens the barrel, making it more appropriate as a ‘quick-fix’ for an already assembled weapon. A barrel that can’t be made completely smooth with the mandrel really should be replaced.

The barrel should be test-threaded onto the blade, to ensure that the threading at the base of the barrel is good. In the case of German and Leon Paul foil barrels, the tip screws should also be tested in the barrel, to check that the threads in the screw-holes are OK.

The condition of the tip is less critical, since it can be replaced after the blade is wired, but it’s still a good idea to make sure it’s good from the start. Check that the flange is securely attached to the end of the tip. The flanges on Prieur (French) made of soft bronze, peened on to the shaft, and are very prone to working loose. The end-flange of a German point is threaded on to the shaft of the tip, but once it comes unscrewed it will tend to work loose again even if you screw it back down. Also check the condition of the exposed plastic insulation on Prieur and Leon Paul tips—if damaged it can cause the weapon to ground out and not register a touch when the point is depressed.

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